Enlightenment on sumac


Any time you mention sumac you think of poison sumac also known as poison oak. Sumac while related to poison oak is related to the sumac spice. Sumac is the berry from a shrubby little plant growing in the middle east and parts of Italy. The spice looks black, but the berries when fresh are a brick red. You can buy them ground or whole dried berries. The leaves and bark of the plant was used for tanning leather. It is tart rather astringent and has been used as a souring agent. The spice is rather delicious on grilled meats, fish, ligumes, veggies and even rice. If you’d like to try using it, it can be found in any well stocked middle eastern market place.

Middle eastern grilled monkfish with flat bread dip

2 monkfish filet (about 2 pounds)
4 Tablespoons ground sumac
8 Teaspoons toasted sesame seed
8 Tablespoons thyme
2 Teaspoon fine pink himilayan salt
olive oil to coat fish filets

Wash the monkfish filets under cold water. Find and trim off the blue membrain as it’s inedible. Coat monkfish in olive oil and dredge in the remaining spices. Place on grill of a medium heat (it is ready when you hold your hand 1 inch off the grate and count 1 mississippi, 2 mississippi, 3 mississippi, ouch). Allow to cook 5 to 6 minutes per side.

Flat bread dip

1 cup olive oil
2 tablespoons sumac

whisk together and enjoy with a bread of your choosing.

Razor clam digging from ocean to table


Sorry I haven’t been about in ages. I’ve been hard at work on the book. Unfortunately I will not be able to sell them due to being disabled. So I might just give a few away once their finished. I noticed I had a few searches on razor clamswhile I was away. Specifically how to gather razor clams. There is three types of razor clams and I will discuss both in depth along with how to catch them.

I am most familiar with the first one the atlantic jackknife clam. The jack knife is called the bamboo clam, american jackknife clam and of course the razor clam. You can find them from south carolina all the way up to canada and even in europe.  These clams live in sand and mud.  You have to look at intertidal and subtidal zones in bays and estuaries. Here in Rhode Island you can find them in the salt water ponds. They can burrow in wet sand very quickly, and is also able to swim. It gets its name from the rim of the shell being extremely sharp (stepping on one causes extreme pain and a trip to the doctor) and the shape of the clam overall has a strong resemblance to an old fashioned straight razor. These clams can and will out dig you. Harvesting methods can be limited, specifically here in rhode island your not allowed to use a dredge of any kind to collect them. Their location is revealed by a keyhole-shaped opening in the sand and when the clam is disturbed, a small jet of water squirts from this opening similar to steamer clams as the clam starts to dig. They are not really commercially fished because of the speed and the limited harvesting methods.  The best and easiest way to catch the atlantic jackknife is a method called scaring. This is done by pouring salt on the breathing hole and a little water, the clam will try to escape this extremely salt water coming to the surface and all you must do is grab the shell. Very simple method, though some people are confused as to what is poured on the breathing hole. You now know it’s salt. The same method of razor shells works, however they live only in sand. They are found eastern canada to northern europe. The pacific razor clam is a bit different still. They are larger, and can be 30 feet down in sandy beaches.  They can be found from Pismo beach in California, all the way up into the Aleutian islands in Alaska.  They can be almost 11 inches long in Alaska! Generally they are 3-6 inches in their southern range though.  Always check the public health regulations in your area, as clams of any type may be subject to pollution or toxins in the water.  These clams are commercially harvested. I have never dug for pacific razor clams, so I’m not sure how it’s done. I did find a website in Oregon with pictures that can help those on the pacific coast. http://www.dfw.state.or.us/mrp/shellfish/razorclams/digging_razor_clams.asp http://www.dfw.state.or.us/mrp/shellfish/razorclams/index.asp

Now you know how to catch them. How do you clean them? Well one can clean them a number of ways. I purge them by letting them sit in salt water over night with bread crumbs so that they can remove the sand and grit from their bellies.

Another way to do it is to put them in a colander, then pour boiling water over them and then cold water this causes them to pop open. Then you remove the meat from the shell it’s fully cooked and we process the meat. Snip off the tough part of the neck just below the valve. Getting as close to the end as you can. Put the edge of your scissors in under the zipper and snip upward toward the end of the neck. Make sure your scissors go into the lower chamber of the neck to save time. If you missed it, put the scissors back in and cut through the lower chamber. Continue all the way through the end of the neck. Use your fingers to grab the foot and gills. Squeeze gently and pull to separate the foot from the body. After rinsing, the body is ready to eat. Snip at an angle across the end of the foot. Insert the scissors into the middle part of the foot. Cut all the way through the end of the foot, keeping in the middle so that the foot will lay flat for cooking. Pull the foot apart so that it lays flat. Pull the dark material from the foot. Only remove the dark material. Gently pull the foot flat and rinse. There will be soft material that remains on the foot. The foot is now ready to eat. At this point you can batter them and fry them if you wish.

Everything about olives from tree to oil.


English: Olives in olive oil.

English: Olives in olive oil. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

I know there was some interest of growing olives. So I sat down and compiled a list of the different olive varieties. Next to the name I’ve put their use, olives are like people, they each are different from one to the other, so here I go at trying to list some of the main type of olives. There are many more. There is 6279 names for olives…some are for the same olive, but thats a lot of olives. Somewhere I have a list wich I’ll include with every name of every olive, but right now I’ll talk about the most common ones in the olive industry. I could not begin to be thankful for the olive grove owners who lent their knowledge and help with the list of olives. Sorry that it took a year.

First we need to know which olives to use. Olives come in all shapes and sizes. Each are different. So here’s the list of olives that are grown in the industry for oil, table and for both their oil and the table. There is many other olives. If you find a olive tree you would like to grow, please sit with your local master gardener and discuss weather or not it will grow in your local area and how to test your soil to make sure it will grow without a problem.

I’ve broken it up into sections. 1.1 is a list of common trees. 1.2 is general growing instructions. 1.3 is explaining the different types of oil and characteristics. 1.4 is the different types of extraction methods used to make olive oil. 1.5 is bottles, caps and sealers for botteling.
Section 1.1-Common trees

French olives

Aglandau (Berruguette)- Green when ripe, oil and table, high oil content, hazards are Saissetia oleae, sooty mold, Spilocaea oleaginea Self sterile, medium weight, elliptic-lanceolate leaves, slightly asymmetrical, scientific name olea europaea, also called blanquette, plant d’aix, and verdale du vaucluse, and are most notable in provence in france. Good drought resistence but poor cold resistance. The scent of the oil smells similar to almonds, green apples, and artichokes it varies person to person. There is several APO varieties. (Appellation d’orginine controlee, controlled designation of origin.)

Amellau-ripe when green, uses as table olive and for oil. The oil is delicate, floral, and tastes like roses. They are low yeilding, it has a meaty texture. It is often used to augment an oil, or to add to a mix of olives.

Bouteillan-used for oil. The tree is know for a strong vigor with dense erect growth. The fruit is large, ovoid, slightly asymmetrical. High oil content, and the fruit is clingstone. Hardy variety, but needs light, frequent pruning and irrigation. They grow fast, and produce high and constantly. Ripening time is in the middle for time. Self compatible, but need pollenators, such as grossane and cayon. Good resistance to cold, sensitive to olive flies, scales, and moths. Blended with other varieties from provence.

Cailletier (Niçoise)-Edible, but also used for oil. The tree is large downward drooping branches. Main variety found in the alps near nice in france. The olives are small ovoid, high oil content, cured black. The oil is delicate. Best grown from cuttings, decent bearing, but constant. Good cold resistance, but olive flies, and olive scale and olive knot are it’s biggest threat. It is also grown in liguria italy. In italy it is known as taggiasca, but in france maybe called cayet, cayon, grassenc, olivier de grasse, pendoulier, and pleureur. The olives are very light. The stone has a round apex and base with a rugged surface. The oil is best when harvested till mid november, for table they are best before may. It gives 20-25% oil by weight. The oil is sweet and delicate, taste of fresh almonds and hazelnut. For strong more bitter oil harvest before the end of the year. It is biennial bearing. Starlings love the tree. High drought resistance.

Cayon- A good strong growing tree, self sterile, with medium weight. The oil extraction gives 18-22% the weight of the olive. The flavor is fruity and balanced with a soft finish of almonds. High to medium oil content. It is biennial bearing, and the rooting ability is medium to high. Vulnerable to cold but good at sustaining drought.

Cipressino-is a vigorous upright tree, getting its name from its similarity to the habit of the pencil-like Italian cypress. It is a very hardy tree and shows good resistance to coastal conditions but will require a pollinator to produce an abundance of black olives that are best suited for fine olive oil. 2-5 grams at maturity. Yeilds 15-17% of it’s weight in fine light oil. November to the middle of december. Cipressino is the french name for the italian frangivento, hailing from puglia italy. Excellent resistance to salty winds, good resistance to climatic extremes and parasites. has a tendency to grow upwards in the sense of forming a column with branches and shoots that grow straight up. This characteristic, combined with a marked resistance to salty winds, has made this variety one used primarily for windbreaks.

Germaine- Has a good oil yield resistant to the cold. Black when right also called a romana olive. Eaten at the table or as an oil. Low oil content, medium weight. The stone is rounded, smooth surfaced. The oil yeild can be very high, 30% or more. Good constant production, smell of the oil is like that of a mumpkin peel, yet creamy and intense.

Grossane-Black when ripe, oil and table olive with low oil content. Self sterile. Heavy olive. Middle strength tree. Rounded rough surface stone. Used mostly as a table olive, with a sweet taste. The stone is a free stone, it does not cling the flesh, it is a poor oil yeilding olive. Though it has a delicate flavor citrus aroma and slight fruitiness, some say it tastes like tomatoes though. Productivity can be improved by irrigation and fertilization, though has poor rooting ability and is usually grafted. It need boutellian and aglandau to fertilize. Low resistance to pests, but high susceptiblity to cold and drought.

Lucques-Delicious little table olive, originating in herault, and lucca italy, Known by many names in many different countries. They need are a late bearing tree. With medium oil content. The oil smells of almonds, green apples, and tomatoes, debating on the person. A high rooting ability, average harvest time, but is a good biennial. It alternates some seasons it’s great other seasons it’s not so good. Relitively cold resistance and high drought resistance. It is sterile and needs pollinators, Late october beginning of november is when to pick them. The skin is a light green and matures in december, and will be a deep green. The olive is meaty and sweet, similar to almonds and avocados. It will only yield 17% of it’s weight in oil. The taste to some is excessively sweet. The stone is pointed at both ends with few grooves.

Olivière-delicious olive used for oil and on the table. It is believed to of come from the orientales. Strong vigourus tree, it is sterile so it needs pollinator. They are heavy olives. The olive is low in oil content. Reguardless of it’s low yield precentage the tree has a large number of them, when ripe their black. It yields 13-15% of the oil by weight. A adult tree, can yeild 220 lbs of olives a year!!!! The oil smells fruity, almondy, and fresh apricots with a hint of spicy green mint. Pollinators are cayon, picholine, verdale and arbequine. It’s got a very low pest resitance. Some of the trees in france are 400 years old, surviving the harsh winter of 1956, when most french olive orchards were obliterated, so it has a exceptional resistance to the cold.

Picholine- The green martini/cocktail olive…the ones that are lye cured -gasps-. It can be eaten, and is used as an olive oil. It is partially self fertile, but has a low/medium oil content, and weighs between 3-5 grams. Egg shaped olives. The stone is pointed at both ends, smooth surfaces. Harvested october and november while still green for table olives, and picked later on for olive oil once they’ve turned….greener. The time of harvest for the oil depends on the grower. Earlier harvests yield a fruity taste, when harvested later it’s more sweeter. They are best brined, slightly salty. Normally they will yield 20-22% the weight in oil but can also produce as little as 15-18% it’s weight in oil. The oil is normally fruity with a hint of bitterness. Vulnerable to the cold, and vulnerable to pests. Since it is only partially self fertile, it takes advantages of pollinators, the bouteillan, leccino, lecques, manzanilla and sigoise.

Sabine-It yields an exceptional amount of oil, more then 30% it’s weight. It’s black when ripe. Used as a table olive, but it’s a light olive. The oil smells of ripe and green fruit with a hint of nuttiness. Good productive fruit, good rooting ability, but it tends to be biennial. Low resistance to pests, but good susceptiblity to cold weather.

Salonenque-Used mostly as a table olive but good for oil too with a high oil content, medium to heavy weighted olive. The stone is wrinkled, and rounded at it’s point, but pointed at it’s base if that makes any sence. It is bright green when mature, harvested around september 10th for the table, and early november for oil. It’s lovely for making cracked olives. They are fresh and firm meaty texture with a whiff of fennel when cured. It will weild 22-25% it’ weight in oil. The oil is sweet delicate and very strong. The stone is a free stone, it does not cling to the flesh. High and constant production, poor rooting ability, and uses grossane and berrugette for pollinators. High resistance to pests with the exception of the grubs of the olive moth and the olive fruit fly. Good cold resistance but highly sensitive to the wind.

Tanche (Nyons)-Is said to of been introduced to france by the greeks of massilia around the fourth century bc. Also called perle noire, black pearl of provence! Very rarely survives outside of drome and northern vaucluse in southern france. Medium vigours tree, used as a table olive and for oil. It is violet black when mature. When harveting, it is best for smaller sizes in late november, but if you want larger olives, it is better to wait until deember or january. Produces 22-25% of it’s weight in oil, and the weight is generally 5-6 grams. Smooth taste smells of crisp green apples and freshly cut grass, very sweet taste is usually indicative of a late harvest. Later picked olives give the oil more character. Olive oil containing 95% tanche is labeled as appellation of nyons since 1994 it was given protected status. They are commonly used to make tapenade. Slow to produce, but one producing it is a high producer. It needs pollinators, and commonly the cayon is used to fill that need. Today there is roughly 230,000 trees wich produce 400 tons of table olives and 200 tons of oil!!!!! Vulnerable to some pests, but it is mainly susceptible to the wind with a decent cold resistance.

Zinzala-Used stictly as a oil olive. It’s got a low oil content. Othen then that, I don’t know much about this olive. I do know it is grown in bonifacio, corse, corse-du-sud, and olmato france. It is also called zingala.
Greek olives

Adramitini-used for oil, and many diffrent names depending on where it’s grown. It is cultivated in, the aegean islands, evvoia, khios, kriti, lesvo, and mitilene. A average weighted fruit. With a large stone size. Average vigorous tree. The tree I believe needs pollinators, wich ones I am not sure. It has a high oil content comprised of a high linoleic acid, a medium oleic and palmitic and stearic acid, with a low amount of palmitoleic acid. With low medium rooting ability. It’s biennial. It is succeptible to olive flies, and psuedomanas syringae (a bacteria, with this bacteria, the plant can freeze at fairly high temps (29 degrees f), due to INA proteins thu damaging the plants. Intersting fact, sometimes P.syringae has been found in the center of hail stones!) It has a medium cold susceptibility.

Amigdalolia-Used mostly for oil, it is also a table olive. With a heavy weight, large stone, this olive belongs to a tree of average vigour. The oil content varies, generally half the olives will provide a high oil content. They will be constant but may also alternate, they are medium rooting. It is highly succeptable to the olive fly.They have a moderate cold susceptibility..

Amphissis- Used for both oil and eating, a tree grown in greece, china america and syrian arab republic, with many names in albania, cyprus, iran, israel, greece, egypt, lebanon, italy, the us, spain, ukraine, china and australia.They produce a large olive, with a stone mucro and a moderate amount of grooves on the stone. A tree of strong vigour. Medium to high oil content, self incompatible, generally with a low rooting ability. The tree generally is biennial. High susceptibility to the olive fly, Camarosporium Dalmaticum (fungus), Mycocentrospora cladosporioides (a cryptogamic disease), Pseudomonas syringae (bacterial infection), Pseudomonas syringae (fungus), and Verticillium dahliae (a disease). Generally they low resistance to drought (2/3 trees), 3/7 trees have a high cold resistance, with 4/7 having a low cold resisting, 1 in 2 trees have a high salinity resistance, with 1 in 2 trees only being moderate salinity resistance.

Chalkidikis (Chondrolia)- Another greek olive that is dual purpose. Grown in spain, greece and here in the united states. The olive is heavy with a large stone and a moderate number of grooves with a stone mucro belonging to a tree of strong vigour. The tree is partially self compatible and is a very late first fruiting tree. The olives have a moderate oil content. Induced rooting for 1/3 trees is high, while 2/3 will be moderate. They are an intermediate alternating biennial. I’ve never heard of any biotic stressors for this tree. With low drought resistance, 1/3 trees has a high cold resistance while 2/3 trees will have a low cold resistance, but have high salinity resistance.

Daphnoelia- A dual purpose olive usually used for olive oil, grown only in greece. A medium sized olive, with a large stone with a moderate number of grooves in the stone, belonging to a tree of medium vigour. The olives have a moderate oil content, and are good bearing alternating biennial trees. Another tree that to my knowledge does not have any biotic stressers with a low susceptiblity to soil moisture.

Doppia- A olive tree I know nothing about, it’s grown specifically in greece and the greece agriculteral expert told me, these are a specialty tree, grown only in greece and only for the oil. I was also told it is not doppia, it is dopia, also known as patrai, or zachintos. A medium vigour tree, that it is susceptable to the olive fly. They will not tell me anything else about the tree short of moving to greece and beginning my own olive orchard, they did boast that they have 13 trees planted in greece for every 1 person. They did not elaborate if thats just dopia, with 132 million trees I suspect it’s probably every olive on this list.

Frantoio-“FRANTOIO” is found also as synonym of others cultivars, please see also: RAZZO, CORREGGIOLO DI MONTEGRIDOLFO, CORREGGIOLO DI VILLA VERUCCHIO, GORGAZZO. That being said, they are used only as oil. Low flower ovary abortion, the olive is at it’s maximum diameter towards the apex and 3/4 olives are rounded near the apex, 1/4 are subonical. The base maybe depressed, rounded, tapered, or truncated. This gives them an elliptic shape. The fruit flesh to pit ratio is moderate, 16/17 olives are medium in weight, 1 out of 17 will be small. The stone is usually rugose. The stone maybe elliptic or ovoid. The tree’s canopy is usually dense and drooping. 15/24 trees have a strong vigour, 9/24 will only have medium vigour. When fruiting shoots appear there will be lots of “tree feathers”. The tree is usually 46 out of 59 trees are self compatible, 9 partially self compatible, and 4 will be self incompatible. As far as trees go they got a moderate flowering length. When harvested 5/9 will be green with red spots, 2/9 will be turning black, 1/9 will be black skin and half the pulp will be black as well. They alternate between a weak and a moderate number of olives dropped. They generally begin fruiting early, 2/3 will have a moderate flesh consistancy with a moderate flesh to pit ratio. The fruit is generally late from full bloom to turning black with the maximum oil content early in the season. They gradually turn black, and the oil maybe green/yellow, intense-green, or yellow. The dw oil content is medium, while the fw oil content is medium to high. They are eay to extrat oil from and provide excellent quality oil. The oil may smell of almonds, aromatic-grass, artichoke, fresh cut grass, floreal, fruity, green apple, or tomatoy. The oil taste is usually pungent, but may also be bitter and sweet. Generally they have a high rooting ability, and are a medium to late harvest tree. Out of 62 trees, 42 will be good constant bearing trees, 14 will be good biennial trees, 3 will be moderate constant producing trees, and 3 will be moderate biennial trees. The time of flowering is generally late. They are highly susceptible to the olive fly, armillariella mellea, high resistance to camarosporium dalmaticum, high susceptive to fomes fulvus, moderate gloeosporium olivarum resistance, high susceptible to moloidogne inconita, high susceptible to mycocentrospora cladosporioides, moderate resistance to palpita unionalis, highly susceptible to pholeotribus carabaeoides, high susceptible to pratylenhus vulnus, moderate to high susceptible to prays oleae, highly susceptible to pseudomonas syringae, high susceptible to rosellinia necatrix, high susceptible to the following as well rotylenchulus macrodoratus, sissentia olea, spilocaea oleginea, tylenchulus semipentrans, 50-50 chance the tree is susceptible to verticillium dahliae, and highly suceptible to the virus SLRV. A tree highly susceptical to air humidity, cold, drought, fog, high salinity resistance, high susceptability to wind and soil moisture. (And my arms hurt along with my hands lol)
Kalamata (olive)- Dual purpose olive, medium number of grooves on the pit, large stone size, medium to high olive weight to a strong vigourous tree. Self incompatible, medium to high oil content, providing good olive oil. Low rooting ability, but a good biennial tree none the less. Highly susceptible to aspidiotus hederae, parlatoria oleae, sissetia oleae, with wild results on resistance to spilocaea oleaginea. medium to low bactrocera oleae susceptiblity, moderate camarosporium dalmaticum, and low susceptability to pseudomonas syringae. High susceptible to the cold, and wind, moderate soil moisture susceptiblity and low susceptibility to salinity.

Kalokerida-used only for oil, a strong vigour tree, with medium sized stone. high oil content and self incompatible. High susceptibility to olive flies. I don’t really know about environmental though.

Karidolia-dual purpose olive. Large sized stone, a tree with a good strong vigour. Low oil content, but medium rooting ability and partially self compatible. Susceptible to pseudomonas syringae, highly cold susceptible.

Kolovi-dual purpose but mostly used for oil. A tree with strong vigour. The olive has a high oil content, moderate alternating biennial tree. Partially self compatible. High suscptibility to verticillium dahliae and low susceptibility to pseudomonas syringae. It’s true name is valanolia, kolovi is a synonym.

Konservolia- A dual purpose olive that is mostly used and prised for a table olive. A strong vigourous tree. The olive is moderate to heavy in weight. Medium to high oil content, with mixed rooting ability, 3/5 are poor, 1/5 is moderate, 1/5 is high. Naturally it has poor rooting ability. The tree is usually a good to intermediate biennial. High susceptibility to olive flies, spilocaea oleaginea, verticillium dahliae, with moderate camarosporium dalmaticum and myocentrospora cladosporioide susceptbility, with mixed results varying from moderate to low susceptibility to pseudomonas syringae. High susceptibility to cold 3/7 trees, while 4/7 trees are low susceptibility. moderate to low dought susceptibility, and high to moderate salinity susceptibility.

Koroneiki-Grown only for it’s oil. Small sized stone moderate vigour tree. Mixed results on oil content 6/13 are high, 5/13 are low, and 2/13 are medium. Generally medium rooting ability, but 1/5 will be high, 1/5 will be low. 3/5 trees will be a good bearing biennial, and 2/5 will be good constant bearing trees. Trees will be 50/50 susceptibility to olive flies. Moderate susceptibility to camarosporium dalmaticum, high susceptibility to pseudomonas syringae and low susceptibility to spilocaea oleaginea.Highly susceptible to cold, moderate drought susceptiblity, moderate to high salinity susceptibilty, and low win susceptibility.

Kothreiki-Dual purpose olive. A large stone belonging to a tree of strong vigour.Olives are medium to heavy in weight. Self compatible with varying oil content half the time its high or medium. With high rooting ability good bearing biennel. Low cold susceptibility, medium susceptibility to salinity, and low suscptibility to wind.

Koutsourelia-grown for the oil. Small stone tree with strong vigour. High oil content and self incompatible so needs a polinator is needed. Beyond that I don’t really know much.

Lianolia Kerkyras-Tree of strong vigour grown for it’s oil. Small stone. Partially self compatible. 2/3 olives have a high oil content, 1/3 will produce a more moderate amount. Poor rooting ability, yet a good constant bearing tree. Highly susceptible to armillariella mellea, and the olive fly. Highly susceptible to soil moisture, yet low susceptibility to cold, drought, salinity, and wind.

Manaki- This is rarely used as a dual purpose olive, but is prized for its oil. Grown only in cyprus and greece. This is another olive tree that I know next to nothing about other then this.

Mastoidis (Tsunati)- Dual purpose olive yet used primarily for olive oil. A tree of only medium vigour and a medium sized stone. A medium sized olive usually of high oil content. Moderate rooting ability, and moderate bearing biennial. Highly susceptible to the olive fly, prays oleae (olive moth), and spilocaea oleaginea. Low susceptible to pseudomonas syringae. Highly susceptible to salinity, but low to cold and drought.

Megaritiki-mostly a dual purpose olive. Medium vigour tree,.stone size, and olive weight. Self incompatible, usually high oil content but some are low producing. High rooting ability though sometimes it’s moderate, 50/50 chance of it. 50/50 chance of it being a good bearing biennial, or a moderate bearing biennial. Highly susceptible to licthensia viburni,moderately susceptible to liothrips oleae, highly susceptible parlatoria oleae, low susceptibility to pseudomonas syringae, moderately susceptible to saissetia oleae (black scale) and verticillium dahliae.

Thassitiki (Throumbolia)-used mostly as a table olive but it’s a dual purpose olive. Strong vigourous tree with large stone. High oil content, partially self compatible, moderate bearing biennial. Moderate susceptibility to salinity.

Vasilikada-a dueal purpose olive though it’s more commonly a table olive. A tree with only moderate vigour, the fruit is heavy, with a large stone. Partially self compatible, with low to moderate oil content. It is a poor bearing biennial. High susceptability to olive flies, Pseudomonas syringae, and a low susceptability to spilocaea oleaginea. Low susceptibilty to cold, yet is highly drought susceptibile.

Italian

Ascolana Tenera-HISTORICALLY call piceno. It is mostly a table olive but can also serve a dual purpose. A large scabrous stone sits inside this olive with a high flesh to pit ratio and moderately heavy to a heavy weighted olive. The branches are erect with a dense canopy. Most of the time the trees has a strong vigour, but 1 in 9 trees will only be moderately so. The internode length is moderate.Internode length meaning the stem is divided into sections where leaves are or were attached called nodes, and internodes the length of the stem between the nodes. The leaves and stems together make up the shoots. The stone is elliptical in shape. The trees are self incompatible mostly (26/40), self compatible (11/40) leaving the remaining 3/40 partially self compatible. They usually begin fruiting late in the season. The fruit tend to gradually turn black. The oil is usually greenish yellow, but maybe green. The oil content varies, 12/25 and 12/25 will be low in oil or contain moderate oil content. The oil is usually exellent. It may smell of almond, aromatic grass, artichoke, cut grass, fruity, green apples, or tomatoey. The oil is usually bitter pungent and sometimes sweet, wich means it is usually mixed with other oils. There is a 50/50 chance it will have a moderate to high rooting ability. It i a tree that requires an early harvest. Most of the time it is a good bear biennial, but may be a moderate biennial, a moderate constant bearing tree or a poor biennial. Susceptible to olive flies, camarosporium dalmaticum, gloesporium olivarum, meloidogyne incognita, meloidogyne javanica, olive moths, pratylenchus ulnus, rotylenchulus macrodoratus, sissetia oleae, spilocaea oleaginea, stictis panizzei, tylenchulus semipenetrans, verticillium dahliae, and the SLRV virus. Moderate to low susceptibility to fomes fulvus, most trees are low susceptibility to pseudomonas syringae, low susceptibility to sooty molds, and a low susceptibility to the CuMV virus. 71% chance the tree is not susceptible to cold, vrs 1% that it is, and 14% for a moderate susceptiblity to cold. Moderate drought susceptibility, and low susceptibility to iron chlorosis (guess the tree needs to stop de liver…ok I been at this for weeks so little humor is needed)

Biancolilla-used mainly for oil, but can be used as a table or dual purpose olive. Medium to weak vigours tree with dense canopy the olives are of medium high weight. Partially self compatible, 10/15 trees, 2 out of 15 are self compatible, and 3/15 are self incompatible. The flesh has a low consistancy when ripening, the oil produced is green/yellow. With medium low oil content. The oil smells of almonds artichoke or fruity. Generally bitter sweet in flavor. The rooting ability is variable 1/3 between high low and moderate, but is a good bearing biennial. Low susceptibility to armillariella mellea (fungus), highly susceptible to the olive fly, high susceptible to euphyllura olivina (type of insect), low susceptibility of fomes fulvus (dry rot), moderate susceptibility to mycocentrospora cladosporioides, high susceptibility to pseudomonas syringae, and a variable susceptibility to olive moths, out of 10 trees 3 will have a high susceptibility, 2 will have low, and 5 will have a moderate susceptibility. Moderately susceptibile to air humidity, moderate to low cold susceptibility, 1/3 will be drought susceptible, and 2/3 will be low. Low susceptibility to fog and highly susceptible to wind.

Bosana-dual purpose usually a oil olive. The tree is of moderate vigour with spreading tree branches. Olives are of medium weight. 11/14 trees are self incompatible, 1/14 is self compatible, and 2/14 are partially self compatible.The flesh ha a high consistancy at ripening. The color of the oil is greenish yellow, the oil content varies, but generally is medium high. The oil smells of almond, artichoke, cut grass, fruity, green apple, or tomato. The oil is usually bitter and pungent in taste but may also be slightly sweet. Usually high rooting ability, an good constant bearing tree but may also be biennial 4/15, or moderately constant 3/15. Moderate susceptibility to olive flies, and olive moths, mycocentrospora cladasporioides, high susceptibility to pseudomonas syringae in 1/5 trees, but 4/5 will be low susceptibility, with high susceptiblity to spilocaea oleaginea, and highly susceptible to verticillium dahliae. Generally mixed susceptiblity to the cold, 2/8 will be high, with 3/8 being low to medium. Moderately drought susceptible.

Cima di Bitonto-used strictly for oil.They are a medium olive with a large smooth stone. Branches maybe drooping and or spreading. The canopy is moderately dense a tree of strong vigour, but 1 out of 5 maybe moderately vigours. The flesh of the olive is very constistent at ripening. They are self incompatible 7/11, while 3/11 is self compatible and 1/11 is partially self compatible. The oil color maybe green-moss, green yellow, intense green, and yellow. The dw oil content (dry weight) is rather medium. The Oil content (fruit weight) is medium to high. The oil may smell like almond, aromatic-grass, artichoke, berry fruits, cut grass, fruity, apples, green apples, hay like and tomatoes. The taste a majority of the time will taste pungent, but may also be bitter, fatty or sweet. With a high rooting ability, this tree is a good bearing biennial, but may also be good and constant, morderate bienniel or a poor bearing biennial. Highly susceptable to olive flies, leparod moths, medium to high olive moths, sooty molds, pseudomonas syringae, moderate meloidogyne incognita (type of nematoad), fomes fulvus (dry rot), prays oleae, and moderate amarosporium dalmaticum susceptiblity. Medium to high cold susceptibaily along with high wind susceptibility and low drought susceptibility this is one tree that’s hard to grow.

Coratina-Primairly used for oil but is dual purpose. It’s a medium olive, with a large rugose pit. The canopy is mildly dense, with spreading branches, and of medium vigour. 70% of trees are self incompatibly, 20% are self compatible, and 8% are partially self compatible. The oil colour is greenish yellow. Generally high oil content to fruit weight. The oil smells of almond, aromatic grass, artichoke, cut grass, fruity, or tomatoey. Most of the time it’s a bitter pungent tasting oil but some may find it sweet. A medium-high rooting tree, usually a good constant bearing tree or a good biennial, sometimes it’s only moderately bearing biennial. Susceptible to olive flies, dry rot, olive moths, sooty moulds, zeuzera pyrina, saissetia oleae, pseudomonas syringae, while moderately susceptible to mycocentrospora cladosporioides, phytophthora spp, verticillium dahliae, and gloeosporium olivarum (type of fungus), with low susceptability to meloidgyne incognita, and meloidogyne javanica. Out of 39 trees, 4 will be highly susceptible to cold, 28/39 will be low susceptible, and 7 only moderately susceptible. Moderately susceptible to drought and fog, low-medium susceptibility to salinity, but highly susceptible to wind.

Itrana-A lovely dual purpose olive, only 20% are made into oil. A medium high weighted fruit, belonging to a tree of medium to strong vigour. 90% of the trees are self incompatible, 2 will be self compatible. The oil is a green yellow, the oil content varies but a majority of them will have a moderate amount of oil compaired to the fruits weight. The oil smells of almond, artichoke, berry fruits, cut grass, fruity, or tomatoey. A bitter pungent oil some will find it a bit sweet. Medium high rooting ability, mostly a good yet constant bearing tree, but may be moderately or good bienniel. Most trees have a medium to high susceptiblity to olive flies, dry rot, gloeosporium olivarum, saissetia oleae, and sphaeropsis dalmatica (fungus), medium to low susceptibility to pseudomonas syringae, moderate susceptiblity to mycocentrospora cladosporioides, and a mixed variety of susceptibility to spilocaea oleaginea, 2/8 will be highly susceptible, 5/8 will be low susceptibility, and only 1 out of 8 will be moderatly susceptible. Moderately drought susceptible, highly fog susceptible, 50/50 wind susceptiblity (high-low), and out of 18 trees, 3 will be high susceptibility to the cold, 11/18 will be low susceptible, and 4/18 would be moderately susceptible.

Madonna dell’impruneta-An oil olive, with medium vigour. self incompatible high-low oil content (3/4 will be low), fruity smell, pungent and sweet. High rooting ability. Good biennial tree, or moderately biennial, but may also be a poor bearing biennial. Low susceptibility to moderate to spiloaea oleaginea. 6/9 trees will be low cold susceptibility, with 1 being moderately so, and 2 highly so.

Oliva Majatica di Ferrandina (maiatico)-Generally a dual purpose olive, yet sometimes used as a table olive. A medium-strong vigourous tree with moderate to heavy olives. Self incompatible 10/17, 6/17 will be slf compatible, an 1/17 will be partially self compatible. The oil is an intense-green, fruit weight they will usually have a high oil content. The oil may smell like almonds, aromatic-grass, artichoke, cut grass, fruity, or tomatoey. The oil tastes bitter and pungent. With a medium high rooting ability, the trees maybe good bearing or moderately bearing bienniels. Highly susceptible to olive fly, pseudomona syringae, saissetia oleae, venticillium dahliae, spilocaea oleaginea, and to quadrospidiotus perniciosus (a insect called the san jose scale), with a mixed susceptiblity to cold (equally 2/6 trees will be susceptible to cold, moderately so or lowly), highly susceptible to drought and fog.

Nera di Gonnos-a dual purpose olive grown only in italy. A tree that is usually medium vigour, but a 1 in 6 chance to be a strong vigour tree. They are mix fertility. 1/6 being self incompatible, 3/6 self compatible and 2/6 being only partially self compatible. They have a medium oil content baised on fruit weight. The oil smells of cut grass and fruity, yet the taste is bitter and pungent. Medium induced rooting ability, the trees are biennial, with a good or moderate bearing. Medium to high susceptibility to the olive fly. Highly susceptible to olive moths, pseudomonas syringae, and Spilocaea oleaginea.

Nera di Oliena-another dual purpose olive grown only in italy. 60% of them go to oil, and 40% are dual purpose. The tree is usually medium vigour but 1 in 3 maybe strong vigour with spreading branches that produce heavy olives. Half the trees are self incompatible or partially self compatible. With a highly consistant flesh when ripe. The oil may be green-moss, greenish yellow, intense green, or yellow in color. The olives vary between medium and high oil content based of fruit weight. The oil smells of almonds, aromatic grass, artichoke, berry fruits, cut grass, fruity, green apple, hay like, tomatos. The oil is bitter, fatty, pungent and sweet in flavor. The tree is often a good bearing biennial, but also maybe a moderate bearing biennial. Moderate susceptibility to olive flies, olive moths, and gloesporium olivarum, with moderate to high susceptiblity to spilocaea oleaginea. This tree has a mixed susceptiblity to cold, 1/3 trees maybe high, low or moderate susceptiblity.

Nocellara del Belice-primarily a table olive, but may also be dual purpose. Producing a heavy weight olive from a moderately dense canopy and spreading branches from a tree of medium vigour. Self incompatible tree. Greenish yellow or intense green color oil. The olives are usually moderate oil content by fruit weight, 18/27 will be moderate, 2 will be low, and 7 will be high in oil. The oil smells of almonds, aromatic-grass, artichoke, cut grass, fruity or tomatoes. The oil is bitter, pungent and sweet. Usually a good constant bearing tree, but maybe a good bearing biennial, or moderate consant bearing. Usually a moderate susceptibility to olive flies, and olive moths. A high susceptibility to fomes fulvus, mycocentrospora cladosporioides, pseudomonas syringae, and verticcillum dahliae. Moderate suscptibility to air humidity, and cold, highly drought susceptible, highly susceptible to fog, salinity, and wind.

Olivo Quercetano-used only for oil. Self incompatible. They have a moderate oil content to fruit weight, with low rooting ability. They maybe a good bearing biennial, moderate bearing biennial, or a good constant bearing tree. Moderate susceptibility to olive flies, highly susceptible to Pseudomonas syringae, and moderate susceptible to spilocaea oleaginea. Highly susceptible to the cold.

Pendolino (Olea europaea ‘Pendolino’)-another olive used just for the oil. Medium weight olive, tree that maybe medium, strong or weak (3/6, 1/6, 2/6), with drooping branches. The oil is greenish yellow, with moderate to high oil content based on fruit weight. (5/19 high, 14/19 moderate). The oil smells of almonds, aromatic-grass, artichokes, cut-grass, or fruity. The taste maybe bitter pungent or sweet. The rooting ability varies from low, moderate, and high, (1/11 low, 6/11 moderate, 4/11 high). The tree maybe a moderate or good yeilding tree with a constant bearing of fruit. Moderate to high susceptiblity to olive flies, moderate tolerance to olive moths. Highly susceptible to sooty molds, spilocaea oleaginea, pseudomona syringae, phloeotribus scarabaeoides (known as murettu), verticillium dahliae, and moderate susceptibility to stictis panizzei (type of fungus). Trees have a mixed susceptiblity to cold. 11/25 high cold susceptibility, 10/25 moderate cold susceptibility to cold, 4/25 low cold susceptibility.

Pizz’e carroga-A dual purpose olive.Heavy olives, belonging to a tree of moderate vigour with spreading branches.Mixed fertility, 8/13 partially self compatible, 4/13 self compatible, 1/13 self incompatible. 7/10 olives have moderate oil content by fruit weight, 3/10 will have a low oil content. The oil smells fruity, or like green apples. The oil tastes bitter and pungent. They have a 50/50 moderate-low rooting ability. They are biennial trees, with mixed bearings, good moderate or poor bearing. Highly susceptible to olive flies and olive moths, also highly susceptible to P. Syringae, and S. Oleaginea. They are also highly susceptible to the cold.

Raggia (Frantoio)-Used only for the oil. Typically a medium sized olive. With a moderate flesh to pit ratio. Typically has a medium stone but the stone maybe large in a few of them, and has a rugose stone surface. The tree has drooping branches with a dense canopy, and typrically a strong vigour tree, but maybe moderate (9/24 trees are moderate). They got a low-moderate fruit drop, the color at harvest varies, from black, to green, to rose or light brown. The oil varies from greenish yellow, an intense-green, or yellow. The oil content fruit weight is high, with easy oil extraction. Testing of the oil on average yeilds excellent results, the oil smells of almonds, aromatic-grass artichoke, cut-grass, floreal, fruity, green apples, or tomatoes. The oil tates sweet, bitter or pungent. Generally a high rooting ability, but may also be moderate, the trees are usually good or moderate constant bearing trees, but may also be good or moderate biennials. Highly susceptible to A. Mellea, olive flies, fomes fulvus, m. Incognita, M. Cladosporioides, P. Scarabaeoides, P. Vulnus, olive moths, P. Syringae, R. necatrix, R. Macrodoratus, S.Oleae, S. Oleadinae, T. Semipenetrans, The SLRV virus. They have a moderate susceptibility to V. Dahliae, P. Unionalis, G. Olivarum, and a low susceptibility to C. Dalmaticum. Highly susceptible to air humidity, cold (moderate-high), drought (medium-high), fog, soil moisture, and wind. Moderate low susceptibility to salinity.

Rosciola-Used only for it’s oil. Light olives, moderate vigour tree with spreading branches. Self incompatible. Greenish yellow oil, or yellow. Generally high to medium oil content by fruit weight. The oil smells of almonds, aromatic-grass, artichoke, cut grass, floreal, fruity, green-apple, tomatoes, with bitter, pungent, or sweet taste. High to moderate rooting ability, they are a constant bearing tree with good to moderate harvest. Highly susceptible to olive flies, M. cladosporioides, P. Pentagona, P. Syringae, S. Oleaginea, and a moderate S. panizzei. Mixed cold susceptiblity, 7/20 high susceptibility, 11/20 low, and 2/20 moderate susceptibility. Low drought susceptibility, and highly susceptibile to salinity.

Oliva Taggiasca-used for oil. Moderate fruit weight, drooping tree branches strong vigour tree. Partially self compatible to self incompatible. The oil is greenish yellow, with high oil content to fruit weight. Easy oil extraction. The oil smells of almond, aromatic-grass, artichoke, cut grass, fruity, or tomatoes. Bitter pungent or sweet oil taste. Low to high rooting ability, (2/3 low, 1/3 high), good to moderate constant bearing tree. High susceptibility to olive flies, M. Incognita, P. Vulnus, P. Syringae, R. macrodoratus, S. Oleaginea, and T. Semipentrans. High susceptibility to cold, drought, fog and wind.

Spain

Alfafara-mainly a oil olive but is also used as rootstock. Grown in spain, argentina, brazil, and morocco. Self compatible, average oil content for the olives weight, though difficult to extract with above average induced rooting. A good bienniel.Generally low pseudomonas syringae, though 1 out of 3 exhibits high susceptibility, and highly susceptible to Spilocaea oleaginea. Low cold susceptibility but highly susceptible to drought.

Arbequina-frequently used as a oil olive and is grown world wide. A light weighted olive, with small stone. The branches tend to be spreading, with a average canopy density as far as olives are concerned but a tree of weak vigour but self compatible. High oil content for the weight of the olive, characterized by the smell of cut grass an fruity. 1 in 3 people will find it either bitter, pungent, or sweet.High rooting ability, generally a good bienniel but can bare constantly. Highly susceptible to bactrocera oleae, gloeosporium olivarum, helicotyencus digonicus, helicotyencus pseudoobustus, melanaspies paulista, meloidoyne arenaria, meloidoyne incognita, meloidoyne javancia mesocriconema xenoplax, pratylenchus penetrans, pratylenchus vulnus, saissetia oleae, and verticillium dahliae. Average susceptiblity to spilocaea oleaginea, psuedomonas syringae, and myococentrospora cladosporioides. Low susceptibility to air humidity, cold, and salinity. Average to low susceptibility to drought. Highly susceptible to lime soil, and iron chlorosis.

Cacereña-A dual purpose olive.Above average weighted olive, yet a weak vigour tree. Self compatible with low oil content, high rooting ability, good constant baring or good bienniel baring. High susceptibility to verticilliu dahliae, but moderate spilocaea oleaginea susceptibility with low susceptibility to pseudomonas syringae, and bactrocera oleae. Average cold susceptibility.

Callosina-grown in the Alicante and Murcia area of spain. It’s an oil olive. It’s got a medium weight as far as olives are concerned with a high oil content for it’s weight. Moderate to high induced rooting ability. Good constant bearing tree. Highly susceptible to spilocaea oleginea but low susceptibility to Bactrocera oleae and Pseudomonas syringae. It’s got a low susceptibility to cold and drought.

Changlot- A dual purpose olive primarily used for oil grown throughout spain, portugal, argentina, brazil and chile. A tree of strong vigour bearing medium weighted fruit. Generally partially self compatible. The olive is considered to be a moderate to high oil content olive. Good alternating tree with moderate to low induced rooting ability. Low susceptibility to the viruses SLRV, CuMV, and Saissetia oleae, verticillium dahliae and bactrocra oleae. Moderate susceptibility to Liothrips oleae and prays oleae. Highly susceptible to Pseudomonas syringa and spilocaea oleaginea. Moderately tolerant of salt, but will not tolerate drought or cold at all.

Empeltre-A dual purpose olive prized for it’s oil. The olive weight is moderate. Moderate to strong vigour with a dense canopy and erect branches. Moderate oil extraction but is generally high in oil content, and partially self compatible. The oil smells fruity and like cut grass. The taste is a mix of bitter pungent and sweet. Low induced rooting ability with a few trees being moderately good alternate bearing trees. Moderately to highly susceptible to bactrocera oleae, gloeosporium olivarum, saisstia oleae, spilocaea oleginea, and the viruses CuMV and SLRV. Low to moderate susceptibility to verticillium dahliae with 1 out of 7 trees being highly susceptible. Highly susceptible to cold yet moderatly to highly susceptible to drought.

Farga-A oil olive grown all over spain and argentina. Strong vigour moderate weighted olive. Partially self compatible, with high oil content. It is difficult to extract the oil, yet the taste and smell is often bitter, pungent and sweet, with a nose of fruit and cut grass. Low induced rooting ability, and good alternate bearing tree. Highly susceptible to Bactrocera oleae, pseuomonas syringae, spilocaea oleaginea, and verticillium dahliae. If your trees get cold, expect to loose about half.

Gordal-(may also refure to a variety of spanish olives) The olive called gordal in greece is actually a spanish olive grown there. This is for gordal sevillana. It is a dual purpose olive. The olive is very heavy with high flesh to pit ratio. Large scabrous stone of large size. Tree is of medium strong vigour. Generally self incompable, 18/25 trees, while 2/25 are self compatible, and 5/25 are partially self compatible. The color is usually purple black when harvisted, and the flesh is difficult to to remove from the stone as it is kinda stuck on. Low oil content, low rooting ability, early harvest tree. Most of the time a poor low yeilding tree. The tree is highly susceptible to the olive fly, camarosporium dalmaticum, gloeosporium olivarum, meloidogyne arenaria, meloidogyne incognita, meloidogyne javanica, pratylenchus penetrans, pratylenchus vulnus, pseudomonas syringae, saisetia oleae, sooty mold, low susceptible to spilocaea oleaginea, high verticillum dahliae, and zeuzera pyrinas, low virus SLRV, Virus CuMV, moderate virus CLRV, moderate ArMV and low susceptibility to mycocentrospora cladosporioides. High susceptible to air humidy, mild cold resistance, high drought susceptiblitity, medium salinity, with moderate to low soil moisture susceptibility.

Hojiblanca- grown throught the world, most notably, argentina, spain, australia, china, israel, turkey, morocco, portugal, south africa, and uruguay. Primiarily a dual purpose olive. Above average weight as far as olives are concerned, with Lanceolate leaves and a moderate tree-internode length. Usually self compatible, but sometimes exhibit partially self self compatible. Late fruiting, sometimes low oil content, very difficult to extract. The oil smells of cut-grass and fruity…bitter and pungent yet sweet to others. Average induced rooting ability, and good biennial productivity. Highly susceptible to bactrocera oleae, gloeosporium olivarum, meloidogyne arenaria, meloidogyne incognita, meloidogyne javanica, pratylenchus penetrans, pratylenchus vulnus, pseudomonas syingae, saissetia oleae, spilocaea oleaginea, and verticillium dahliae with average susceptibility to Camarosporium dalmaticum, and low suceptibility to the viruses’s SLRV and CuMV. With above average cold susceptibility, low drought, low iron chlorosis, low lime soil, moderate Salinity susceptibility.

Manzanillo (olive)-Dual purpose but mostly a table olive. moderate to high fruit weight with a high flesh to pit ratio. Spreading branches with a moderate canopy density a tree of weak to moderate tree vigour. Typically self incompatible. The skin is black-purple at harvest with a high flesh to pit ratio. Easy to extract the oil with moderate to high oil content. The smell is fruity and of cut grass and like many oils bitter pungent yet sweet. Moderate to high induced rooting ability, generally a good alternate tree, but maybe good constant or intermediate constant. I am not sure about what biotic stresses are for these trees but I do know they are widely varied in cold susceptibility, moderate drought susceptibility, high susceptibility to iron chlorosis, lime, and soil moisture. Moderately susceptible to salinity.

Morrut-A oil olive grown only in spain. Moderate to high fruit weight. These are hit or miss 50/50 self compatible or self incompatible. Moderate to high oil content with the taste and smell of cut grass fruity bitter pungent and sweet. Hight induced rooting ability, generally a poor-alternating tree. Low susceptibility to bactrocera oleae and Pseudomonas syringae. Highly susceptible to fomes fulvus, gloeosporium olivarum and spilocaea oleaginea. Low wind susceptibility but highly susceptible to cold and drought.

Palomar-an oil olive grown only in barcelona and gerona spain. Though sometimes used as a table olive. A tree of weak vigour and moderate fruit weight. High oil content but the tree is self incompatible. The smell is of cut grass, bitter pungent and sweet. Moderate to high rooting ability when induced a good alternative bearing tree. Highly susceptible to Spilocaea oleaginea. I am unsure of the abiotic susceptibility of this tree.

Picual-Grown all over the world but is recognized as a spanish olive. Primarily an oil olive but sometimes is dual purpose. A tree with dense canopy and spreading branches with a short tree internode length and moderate vigour. High oil content, partially self compatible. Typically high induced rooting ability and a good constant or alternating bearing tree. Moderately susceptible to Camarosporium dalmaticum, Gloeosporium olivae, mycocentrospora cladosporioide, Pseuomonas syringae, and the viruss CuMV and SLRV. Highly susceptible to verticillium dahliae, saissetia oleae, prays oleae, pratylenchus vulnus, pratylenchus penetrans, mesocriconema xenoplax, Meloidogyne javanica, meloidgyne incognita, meloidogyne arenaria, helicotyencus pseudorobustus, helicotyencus digonicus, fomes fulvus and bactrocera oleae. Varied susceptibility to cold. Highly susceptible to drought. Moderate susceptibility to Iron chlorosis, soil moisture, and salinity.

Sevillenca-An oil olive grown only in and around the areas of Castellon, Tarragona, and Valencia Spain. A tree of moderate to strong vigour with medium weight fruit. The tree is incompatible with it’s self. The fruits are moderate to high in oil content and are easy to extract the oil. A typical smell (cut grass/fruity). Moderate to high induced rooting ability. Trees are always good constant or intermediate alternative producers. Highly susceptibl to Bactrocera oleae, Saissetia oleae, and Spilocaea oleaginea. Low susceptibility to Verticillium dahliae. Moderately susceptibility to cold. Highly drought susceptible.

Verdiell-An oil olive grown only in Lerida and Tarragona Spain. A tree of weak vigour and light fruits. Moderate oil content with difficult oil extraction with a typical smell and taste of spanish olives. (Cut-grass, fruity). High induced rooting ability good alternative bearing tree. Highly susceptible to Pseudomonas syringae. Doesn’t play well with drought and low cold susceptibility.
Other varieties

Souri (Lebanon)-A middle eastern olive used as a dual purpose olive. Grown in israel, lebanon, and the syrian arab republic. Moderate fruit weight with erect branches and a sparse canopy. A tree of moderate vigour. Partially self compatible. High oil content. Low to moderate induced rooting ability. A good alternate to intermediate alternate producing tree. Highly susceptible to Aceria oleae, Bactrocera oleae, Palpita unionalis, Pseudomonas syringae, Spilocaea oleaginea, Verticullium dahliae and Zeuzera pyrina. Low to moderate cold and drought susceptibility. Low wind susceptibility and moderate salinity susceptibility.

Nabali (RASI’I) (Palestine)-Mostly used as a table olive but is dual purpose. It is grown in the Gaza strip and west bank and jordan, along with Israel, and argentina. Variable oil conent though generally moderate. Partially self compatible with low to high induced rooting ability. Good alternative to good constant bearing tree. Highly susceptibility to Gloeosporium olivarum and Spilocaea oleaginea. Low cold and drought susceptibility, but moderately tolerant to salinity.

Barnea (Israel)-A dual purpose olive. Known to grow around the Kadesh-oasis. Open pollinated by chemlali.This tree is characterized by strong vigour and spreading branches a good constant bearing tree that is partially self compatible with high induced rooting ability. The fruits are moderate to high in oil content for their weight. Highly susceptible to Sooty molds, Saissetia oleae, Gloeosporium olivarum. Low susceptibility to Spilocaea. Highly susceptible to wind, soil moisture and cold but will be low susceptibile to salinity.

Maalot (Israel)- An oil olive grown only in Galilee in Israel and self pollinated with Chemlali. A tree of moderate vigour. High oil content, and intermediate alternating bearing tree. Low susceptibility to Spilocaea oleaginea.

Mission (California, United States)-A dual purpos olive that is also used as root stock and is grown world wide! From Iraq, and egypt to Japan and new zealand to australia. Literally grown on every continent with the exception of the poles. Self compatible with high oil content and medium to intermediate alternating production. High susceptibility to Aspidiotus hederae, Gloeosporium olivarum, Parlatoria oleae, Saissetia oleae, Spilocaea oleaginea, and Verticillium dahliae. Moderate susceptibility to Pseudomonas syringae. Low susceptibility to cold, moderate drought susceptibility and highly susceptible to salinity.

Section 1.2- Growing your olives.

Olives like be grown in bright places with direct sunlight. Young trees should be secured to long solid stakes to prevent from blowing over. Depending on the variety temprature, wind, soil moisture and salinity will all effect which tree can be grown. There is no olive that grows past zone 8. So those of us in zone 6a will be stuck without real olive trees. (there is 2 trees that are not true olive trees but are similar to olives and they are russian olives and autumn olives. Edible but just not the same but deserve mentioning.) These trees take a long time to grow. Olives should be fertilized at the beginning of spring or autumn using humus or mature manure. It’s best to mix a few buckets of fertilizer to the groun around the trunk of the tree every 2-3 years or when the tree is first implanted. They are evergreens and will keep their leaves year round. Every month to 5 weeks you should water with 1 to 2 buckets of water with the soil being allowed to dry for a few days between buckets. Water young or recently sheltered ones as adult trees are usually satisfied with rain water but in drier climates during times of drought they will need watering. During the spring you can spray it with wide range insecticide and systemic fungicide as a pre-emptive treatment for aphids and fungal disaseases from mild and damp climates.

Most varieties will grow in zones 10 and 11.Trees can be grown bonsai style and moved from hot house to outdoors but it can be very impractical for oil. Olives need a cold period for semi-dormancy. If the average temp is below 54 the tree will slow down and begin gearing up for flowering in the spring.

Be very careful of microclimate within your orchard. Small valleys can be colder then more open areas. These small valleys can be a major difference. This can give the trees frost damage.

Olive trees like non-stratified, moderately fine soils such as sandy loam, loam, silt loam, clay loam, and silty clay loam. These provide for great root growth due to aeration, they are permeable and have a high water holding capacity. Sandier soil are not good on nutrients or water retention. Heavy clays do not drain well or have aeration for root growth. They are shallow rooted trees. Soils that are unstratified to 4 feet are perfect for olives. Cemented hardpan or varying soil textures can impede water movement and can lead to saturate layers that damage olive roots. The trees produce well on moderately acid soils greater then a ph of 5 to moderately basic soils less then a ph of 8.5. Alkaline or soic soils provide poor water penetration and drainage and will create saturated soil conditions that kill olive roots.

Trees grown in the west and southern parts of the US will give better yields and will help protect from freezes if they are given a Southern exposure.

Many trees are grown on an incline, usually less then 20 degrees. The best way to make sure an area is good is to dig a hole and pour in water to see if the water drains. This is called a perc test.

It’s location location location. You need to consider the properties around. Things you should look for are organic buffer zone, run off issues which can bring pest sources. (Growing organically, sources of pests such as untreated olives infested with olive fly, dead native growth can carry boring bettles, grasshopers or weevils which can cause major infestations, and other pests suchs as wild pigs, gophers or ground squirrels.)

What you plan on planting your trees for is a big part of growing olive trees.

Landscaping-Decoration? The shape or size of the tree? A focal point for a garden? Perhaps a mediterranean feel? Well there are areas where planting olives is prohibited for fear of pollen. Sometimes in these aras a non fruiting olive tree can be grown for these purposes. It is called a swan hill olive.

Production-Curing, making oil, both perhaps are questions you must ask. If your making oil, what type of oil do you like? Go out to taste olive oil and find out. The producers are generally very open and helpful when it come to their blends. If your going to try to turn this into a business, you need to think who your going to sell to? What’s the taste profile, an are you going to sell olives, or bulk oil? Local blenders and bulk buyers are always looking for something in particular. The more specific your goals the better. It will make picking the right mix of olive trees worlds easier. People to talk to are producers, olive oil experts, the local farm advisor, olive tree nursery, local growers or a consultant. Talk to them all, it’s not a decision to be made lightly and you need all information before jumping in.

Keep in mind the size. Tree liners for large orchards to fully grown trees can be purchased. The larger the trees the more money your going to shell out. The only real difference is time, money and survival rate. The larger tree the more likely they are to survive.

Certain trees require other varieties for polination. Many recommended Pendolino, Maurino, and leccino to increase the yield. The growers I spoke to recommended that you should plant at least three olive varieties in close proximity to ensure cross pollination.

Many common choices are Arbequina, ascolano, Frantoio, Leccino, Manzanillo, Maurino, Mission, Pendolino, Sevillano. Then there are 3 oils that are used for super high density orchards that produce a lot of oil. They are Arbequina, Arbosana, and Koroneiki.

So now you know some of the information for growing. Chances are your not going to grow an entire orchard. So I’ll stop here and will create a third olive article which hopefully will not take a year about orchard set up. I will tell you, olive oil as a business is very expensive. To give a sence of how expensive…land is between $1,000-50,000 per acre, with a cost of a minimum of 6 bucks per tree, 150-300 trees per acre general, 5,000 to prep the land and plant trees, 500-2000 to maintain 1 acre of orchard. 300-700 to harvest a ton of olives, between 1-6 ton of olives per acre. 550-900 per ton of olives sold as is. Milling 2 tons per hour is 220,000-320,000 and 80,000-100,000 for milling periphernalia. Costs 300-450 per ton at a public processor and get 12-50 gallons of oil per ton. Harvesters are 125,000-350,000 and only orchards of 200 acres or more are able to handle that. So your probably looking at a few million for start up.

1.3 The types of olive oil

Ok moving on. The types of olive oil. We all hear of EVOO or extra virgin olive oil when cooking. Here’s something you don’t know, EVOO has 4 sub types. These 4 types are extra virgin (regular), organic extra virgin, PDO (protected designation of origin) and PGI (protected geographical indication). Each sub type has varying charactoristics.

All virgin oli oils come only from olives. The oil is obtained either mechanically or physically, or through a thermal process which does not alter the oil. All virgin oils are natural, untreated in anyway other then, washing, decanting, centrifuging and filtering. Oils that do not fall in this catigory are oils that use solvents, re-esterification, and are made using oils from other sources. For example if I mix extra virgin olive oil with peanut oil and market it as extra virgin olive oil, it’s not really extra virgin olive oil.

PDO/PGI olive oils, meet the specific characteritics of a particularly region. Think purity laws, it’s not true italian olive oil if it doesn’t pass the italian olive oil purity laws. All olive oils are characterized by their organoleptic (taste and aroma) and analytic characteristics. For example, the degree of acidity contained in an olive oil is actually the amount of fatty acids floating in it not in it’s oil make up not the taste. PGI means it came from a region. For example, if I make a Italian olive oil in rome, Italy using only italian olives, it is automatically PGI because it is made within lazio and is a product of lazio.

Extra virgin olive oils-has a free acidity (known as oleic acid) of no more then .8% and fits in the IOOC standards. (International olive oil councel-and no I am not kidding.) This is the highest quality olive oil, and is less then 10% of the olive oil market for any producing country. The taste, color and appearance can vary grately. They have a taste and aroma that reflects that they were mae from olives. They are anything but tasteless and have no taste defects. (More on tasting later)

Virgin olive oils-no more then 2.0% of oleic acid. This is just under the extra virgin olive oils. They must meet the IOOC standards. (sorry but the IOOC wouldn’t tell me their standards.)

Ordinary virgin oils-must not exceed 3.3% oleic acid and matches with the IOOC’s characteristics. They are considered an inferior oil with defects in tasting. In some countries these are known as lampante olive oil by the IOOC and the EU has already done so.

Lampante virgin olive oils-These are oils not ment for consumption. They have 3.3% of oleic acid in their make up. These are olive oils intended to be refined, or for olive oil lamps. They are generally the result of bad olives and bad/careless processing methods.

Then we drop out of the virgin olive oils and into the refined olive oils. Refined olive oils are from Lampante virgin olive oils that under go treatment. (Kinda like distilling), the requirement is that this treatment must not damage the glyceridic structure of the oil. They in the end have an acidity of no more then .3%. Half the oil in the mediterranean is refined because it is such a low quality. There is no solvents used to extact the oil, and refined oils are considered tasteless, odorless and colorless and are considered unfit for human consumption because of the poor flavor not safety concerns. It is refined with the use of charcoal, and other chemical and physical filters without using solvents.

Then we drop down into the blended oils. Blended olive oils are a mixture of a higher grade virgin olive oil and a blend of the more tasteless refined olive oils. They are not allowed to pass an acidity of 1%. Most of your olive oils are of this type. Olive oils sold here in the united states as light or extra light are blended olive oils. The overall goal is to use up this inferior oils by making different tastes and blends at different prices.

Then we get into pomace oils. Pomace oils are the ground flesh and pits left after pressing. Olive-pumace oil is gotten as a result of solvents and physical treatments or re-esterification. It is used in soap making and industrial purposes. It is broken up into 3 groups. Crude, refined and olive-pomace oil.

Crude is just that, the oils resulting from further pressing and other physical treatments without the use of anything other then pressing.

Refined is obtained from crude. It has a very low acid content. It is refined much like refined olive oil, except it’s using crude.

Then we got olive-pomace oil. it is blended with refined olive-pomace oil and virgin olive oil. It’s got no more then 1% acid.

I personally like them in frangrances or massage oils but thats just me, and I love them in olive oil lamps.

Tasting oliv oil is mostly through smelling. A tablespoon in a tapered wine glass is best. Then swirl it around with 1 hand over the glass. Then tick your nose in there. Inhale. You can now describe the smell. Mild strong, hints of fruit or cut grass etc. Then you slurp your olive oil, yes you slurp it. This helps with emulsifying the oil with the air and helps spread it through the mouth. This lets you get a taste of every small flavor with a small sip. Then you swallow the oil and see if it stings your throat. First the aroma, then bitterness, and then the intensity of the oil’s pungent characteristics. The reason color isn’t judged is cause the color doesn’t indicate a flavor or the oils quality. Taste in a dark blue glass and you’ll be amazed.

Then you must try to describe it. Aroma pleasant or was it terrible? Was the aroma strong, mild or in between? Was it better then the previous samples? Use 3 words or phrases to describe it. Is it bitter towards the back of the tongue? Is it mild or strong or in between this bitterness? Does it balance against the aroma? Hows it feel on your throat? What was your impression? Did your throat sting or were you forced to cough? Is the pungency of the oil balanced against the aroma and bitterness? Rinse your mouth with water and figure out which oils you like best. There is over 1000 varieties of olive all with their own flavors, this will give you lots of flavor ranges. In time you can test to see which variety you like, and help to educate your palate. Then you can do as I do and select the olive oil that has the flavor charateristics that will go well with your meal. If your sitting here thinking, wow they treat olive oil like wine. Your right olive oil is treated just like wine.

1.4 Extracting the oil

So now you got your olives. You know how to grow them, you know the types of olives and you know how to taste the olive oil. How do you get oil out of the olives? First harvesting is a big factor in your oil.

This is a very complicated stage in oil production. Olives are not like picking grapes for wine. With wine you may have to be up in the middle of the night to harvest your grapes and put them on ice. Planning is key to picking olives for oil. You don’t want the olives to sit long at all.

There is three maturity stages that olives are picked for their oil. They are green immature, verasion, and black.

Green immature olies are green and very firm. Their oil is bitter and grassy with unripe and vegetative characteristics. They are high in anti-oxidents and flavor components. They are bitter because of it and very pungent with a long shelf life due to natural preservatives. They are rich in chlorophyll making them very green. They are hard to press because they are unripe and need to malax or relax longer.

Veraison as it is called is when the skin turns red-purple in color. Olive go from green to yellow-green then the red-purple. They are still high in anti-oxidents but not as much as green olives. This is when they begin to get the ripe fruityness to them, which I rather enjoy. These oils have some bitterness and some pungency. This is when they are considered to be at the peak for oil production, as they have the most oil in them. They are usually easier to extract oil from then green.

Black is when the olive mature. The skin turns black. Some varieties never go fully black. The flesh darkens all the way to the pit. The oils from mature fruit are less bitter, less pungent, and more golden in color generally because of a decline in chlorophyll and anti-oxidents. As a result while the yield is high, and the oil is sweet, the trade off is a shorter shelf life.

I can think of only 4 ways to extract the oil. They are the olive press, decanter centrifuge, sinolea, and hybrid.

My favorite and probably your favorite is the olive press. It in my opinion is perfect for the person with a few olive trees who’d like to try their hand at making some olive oil. Olive made 5000 years ago was pressed by the greeks. In Volubilis in Morocco they have ancient olive oil on display from the Romans.Olive presses wor by applying pressure to olive paste to seperate the water from the oil from the paste. The water and oil were then seperate by decantation. It requires proper cleaning, and a lot of precations to make high quality olive oil. The olives must be ground under a millstone for 30-40 minutes. This insures that the olives are well ground into paste, that the dropplets of oil from the olives form large droplets of oil, and the natural enzymes can produce the aroma and taste. The paste is usually spread onto disks then stacked up ontop of one another like the records on a juke box. Traditionally, these disks were made of fibers from coconut or hemp. Today synthetic fibers are used as they are easy to clean and mantain. These disk then were pressed together with something very heavy. Today hydraulic pistons capable of excerting 400 atmospheres of pressure! Water was then poured down the sides of the disks to help seperation. Today they use a vertical centrifuge to seperate the water and oil. It forms a very high quality olive oil. The disks are then cleaned to prevent fermentation and cause defects in the oil. They require cleaning after each use.

Today centriugation is the most common. They take up a huge area. The olives are crushed to a paste. Allowed to rest or malax for up to an hour to form the droplets of oil. It is then pumped into a centrifuge mixed with water and then spun at 3000 rpm. This then allows the solids to cling to the side (Similar to clothes in your washer), then water, and olive oil in the middle. The solids are pushed out, and the water is then run through a verticle centrifuge at double the speed to remove any little bit of oil left. The advantages are compactedness (1 takes up the space of 7 presses, but I like the presses myself. ) They can run continuously, without human intervention. They require very little labor, the water is easier to dispose of, and it gets a lot of the oil out. The oils are less likely to oxidize as well.

The draw back is they are expensive. There is a high energy bill involved. The pomace can be wet and harder to clean. There’s more water to get rid of. There is fewer antioxidents due to the water added. The wear from rocks and grit can damage them leading to technical labor that is expensive.

Then we get to the Sinolea. The Sinolea is an old process that uses rows of metal disks that are dipped into the paste. The though is that the oil sticks to the steel plates due to the differences in surface tension. The advantage is, it can be automated, there is low energy requirements, low labor, the oil and water seperation steps aren’t needed, there is more polyphenols in the end resulting oil, and it can be done at low temperatures to meet the cold extraction standards. The draw back is you need more then 1 method due to a lot of oil being left behind in the paste which results in more space and labor. The large metal plates lead to the oil oxidizing which is a bad thing. The machines are outlawed for sale in the EU due to the degree of difficulting cleaning such large surface areas.

Hybrid methods use a wide variety of different set ups based on the final outcome. For example some use a millstone to grind the olive paste, then they use a centrifuge to seperate the water from the oil. It is generally not used on a commercial level because there is times that all the machinery is stopped. It is expensive but it’s used by small scale olive mills to make high quality oils.

Some things being looked at for the future is the extraction and malaxation in a nitrogen atmosphere to reduce oxidization. Removing the pit before grinding to prevent the oxidizing enzymes from getting in the paste and the paste being free of wood making it acceptible as animal feed. Reducing water addition to reduce washing of the flavorful polyphenols. Improving the sinolea method by increasing the oil absorption efficency of the plates to remove the need for other methods of extraction.

Sometimes during the extraction process they use additives and addition processing techniques. Talc can be used to process olives that are hard to extract oil from or to increase the yield of some olives. Other things that are done are the use of enzymes, steam, hexane and other such solvents to increase the yield while sacraficing quality of the oil. Then there is the method of refining by reducing the acid by use of a alkali (caustic soda) or steam processing; bleaching the oil to remove residual fatty acids, chlorophyll, and carotenoids. Further more diatomaeous earth, activated carbon or synthetic silica can be usd to filter and remove the odors of activated carbon. These are only used for low quality oils mind you.

After you can do three things. 1) Get them tested by a lab and certified to be labeled extra virgin for selling. 2) Taste them and blend them to get the flavor profile that you like. 3) bottle and label them.

1.5 selecting the bottle

The size of the bottle is important. The bottles are usually 250ml, 375ml, 500ml and 750ml. The shape is more about practicality. If your going to label and sell them you need a bottle you can label. You also want a bottle that won’t fall over and break easily during shipping. A bottle that is amber, green, dark blue or black are better then clear glass bottles. The light will ruin the quality of the oil and acclerate the oxidiation. Bottles should not use lead to produce the glass.

There is 4 types of tops that are used in the industry. Bar tops, screw tops, ropp tops and corks.

Bar tops are plastic disks ontop of a natural or synthetic cork. It must fit the bottle, they no special equipment, can be done by hand, and are interchangeable between bottles. They must be ordered to fit. The other problem is that they can pop when there is a change in temprature or pressure. This can be fixed by not over filling. They can then be shrink wrapped on. It is considered to be more expensive of the 4.

Screw tops can be done by hand with no special equipment. They are not easily interchangeable. They look clumsy, the seal is more reliable, and are the middle road in terms of price. They are almost always plastic.

Ropp tops are metal twist tops. They got a tamper proof ring on the closure and when you open it you can hear it seperating from the ring. They are reliable and resistant to temprature and pressure changes. They do require special and expensive equipment to apply. They can be shrink wrapped and are the least expensive in the long run for large scale production. Not very cheap for small production.

Corks are almost never used cause they aren’t reliable for companies. Artisan olive oils will use corks from time to time. There is ontop of it other things ontop. Shrink-wrap capsules are plastic tamper proof seals. They us a heat gun or a shrink wrapper to apply. They are cheap and have many different color options.

Raffia are another method to finish off the bottles. They are expnsiv difficult and time consuming. Raffia is imported and treated to kill beetle eggs that can be in it. They are used for small bottles or home use.

Wax finishes are har to apply and more expenive then shrink wrap. They are hard to remove.

Foil capsules are made of metal and seen on wine bottles. You need a spinner machine and they are expensive to buy and use.

Most companies store the oil in drumps or tanks than in bottles. They will only fill bottles to meet their sales. Some bottle by hand it’s the cheapest way to go and simplest. They use a hose and a spigot on the barrel.

There is gravity fillers which have a siphon tube. There is several spigots on the bottom and they are filled in rows.

Vacuume fillers suck air out of the bottle and push oil in. It is one one bottle at a time and is very expensive.

Line bottlers are machines that fill the bottle, apply the cape and the label. They are fast and the most expensive way to bottle olive oil. Kinda like how they do soda on how it’s made.

There you have it….everything on taking an olive from a tree and making it into olive oil.

soppressate sannitiche


preparation technology – lean meats and pork choices are all cut by hand to the tip of a knife: Then you add diced hard fat (two parts of a face and fat) and tanned with salt, whole black pepper and ground. It is stuffed in natural casings. The brawn are kept under weight for a few days and then exposed to smoke from the kitchen in the basement and after for ages.

composition

a). the raw material – Lean pork, pork fat.
b). Aid – salt, pepper

aging – a fortnight in a warm and breezy. (2 weeks is a fortnight.)

seasoning period – two months later in the cellar. After curing, store them to put themselves in fat (lard or oil)

notes

AERMAR not exaggerated in the south that “the country that you are going brawn.” While it is always made with the same basic ingredients ie pork, salt and pepper, brawn and difficult to find consistent taste. The sensory differences are, by local people, claimed as the result of their unique techniques, combos that taste, aroma and shape are constantly called into play. And since we do not know, for example, the taste of a brawn of pasato whose manufacturer could choose between the black pig, red and white, but everyone agreed that, for the meats, the best remaining red and black. He must have had a large head, the snout short and turned up, long ears, eyes small and lively, short, strong legs, large buttocks, belly protruding, square and round body more than long, quiet, inordinately fond of nature, sleeping infrequently. Venice special considerations made on whether to give the boar to Scroffa to “… yet his talent since quand’ha already pregnant belly, but should not let that du coupled times a year, ie in spring and autumn, why not the weak and growing old priest, and does not have the proellini sad “(a. Balbiani, the real treasure of her companions, issues analysis Bologna 1986, P.218). Not so much surprised if the brawn that benefited from such feedstock have been captured in the diaries of foreign visitors ….

Coppiette (di cavallo e di…)


Italiano: Bresaola equina

Image of bresaola via Wikipedia

coppiette (di cavallo e di…) – couples (of horses and …)

Hey if the world ended and a horse you owned died of natural causes and your starving…you now have a way to eat it besides soups an stews an roasts.

Preparation technology – pieces of horse meat into thin strips, seasoned and hung in the chimney to be smoked. Currently almost disappeared and the use of horse meat, pork or replaced by vaccination. In other words, it’s mostly done now with pork.

Composition
a) Raw material – strips of horse meat of choice.
b) Technological – salt, pepper and plenty of lemon, orange peel and fennel sometimes used in the province of Latium.

aging – after being seasoned with salt and pepper abundant (in the tradition because it was believed that did not attack the flies) are buried in red wine for a couple of days. (think it means it did not attract the flies.)

seasoning period – ten days, ie until the product is not completely dry, pouring a lot of weight.

historically made in Ariccia in lazio.

note

the name of “couples” is derived from the techniques of preparation that takes on a wire bent in half in front of the fireplace for db x-trackers dried. The origin of the product and barriers in the need to preserve the meat as long as possible, especially during the winter, or transhumance. This is because the couples were originally only as a horse, while on the move, the meat of sick animals or more vercchi was used to prepare this food. In Rome, was a tradition in the wine-consuming, seritein straw baskets, and adorned with red laces tied in points. Or vendors, known as “coppiettari”, passing through the city streets, shouting “couples!” accompanying them to passers-by offered her a glass of wine. Currently, to produce them with horse meat were porchissimi butchers, and while the popularity of pork and cow.

It ‘a product in danger of extinction because ill-adapted to the ever more oppressive sanitary regulations.

Porchetta di ariccia


Porchetta stuffed with cracked pepper at Cafe ...

Porchetta stuffed with black pepper via wikipedia

Freshly translated from italian to english, and ready to share. (Translated from Atlante Dei Prodotti Tipici, Isalumi, Insor – Istituto Nazionale Di Soialogica Rurale by Prefazione Di Camillo De Fabritiis and Introduzione di Corrado Barberis )

Porchetta is a roast of a kind. It is a very savory, fatty, and moist boneless pork roast. The body of the pig is gutted, deboned, arranged carefully with layers of stuffing, meat, fat, and skin, then rolled, spitted, and roasted, traditionally over wood. The Porchetta is usually heavily salted in addition to being stuffed with garlic, rosemary, fennel, or other herbs, usually wild.

Porchetta originated in ariccia. It is nestled in the alban hills in latium or lazio in central italy. So this is a recipe of ariccia for it’s porchetta.

Technology of preparation – pig weighing between 70-80 kg fully boned and emptied to be filled and served. It is then tied with twine and put on a steel pole to be cooked in the electric oven at 200-300 degrees celsius for 3 hours. After the shutter is made to cool slightly and serve warm or cold as required by law. (Yes it is a law in italy, similar to german purity laws when it comes to certain beers.) 200-300 celsius is 392-572 F. 70 kg-80 kg is 154.323584 lb to 176.36981 lbs.

composition
a) Raw material – whole hog, excluding legs, the farms at home and abroad.
b) Aids – garlic, salt, pepper, rosemary, wild fennel.

aging – once seasoned, the pork is cooked immediately.

period of maturation – immediate consumption.

Notes – old food, the pork, that are already laden under the name of the banquet of Trimalchio Porcus Troianus and so called because filled with sausage, birds and other surprises in the same way that the famous Trojan horse was full of armed men. More recently, the porchetta was rediscovered in 1249 in Bologna to celebrate the victory of which he was imprisoned Fossalta King Enzo, son of Emperor Frederick 2. Others postpone the cup. From the pork of the town hall was thrown to the people below that squabbling tear you to pieces on the great pleasure of telling cronahe popoloasieme thrown on the hot broth to the meat for the greater amusement of lords. Then grind it prevailed until 1796 quantradizionale the Feast of St. Bartholomew on August 24. See S. Ciner, The history of the pork, the flamingo, Bologna sid (but 1998). It is assumed that the spread of pork was I’area than today, much more shifted towards the north: tetimonia as also the fact that, in Treviso, a popular cafe in the Piazza dei Signori continues to sell under this name a ham, but cooked in a certain way.

It was really a pork roast the pig that Platina was little and poorly nutritious, heavy on the stomach, harmful to the head, the eye and liver, a propitiatory Oppilo and calculations? The confusion between pig and pork filling, which is a recipe in Apicius, dominates the literature gastronomic favored by different tonnage of pigs, reduced the current. Against this recurring misunderstanding goes comumque reiterated that pork is not the stuff of piglets. Its social utility is required to treble – bnche a bit ungrammatical – Tanara observers such as: “in the province of Umbria and the Marches Piazzedi appeared on the town or lands every Sunday morning many, well cooked roast, to be sold with very useful for the poor, such as ence to the pot, the dinner all’hora they buy a piece and enjoy with his family. ” (P. 174). In a society pretechnological pignatti needed to heat the wood and the wood was dear. So much so that even in Rome, and even the nobles did not shy away from mandates to buy food from a host, an agreement. See Rita Fiorvanti, “the CRIBI the agri-food in Rome and Lazio from the beginning of the eighteenth century Napoleonic occupation” in the kitchen of the MBCA Memory, New York 1993, p. 89.

Ariccia the tradition of pork would have been invented by Prince Chigi, nephew of Pope Alexander VII (1655/67). To get rid of too many animals who “lived” the garden of the palace, I organize a party and the banquet was served for the first time a pig cooked in the oven. Most mythical origins claimed by Poggio Bustone. At the beginning of modern times his traveler, or an immigrant antelettera, that Moretto, was present in India, the burning of a herd of swine. Having touched the back of a scorched, they would get back a little sunburn, but putting his hand on the pin for pain relief, a great sensory satisfaction. Hence the idea of becoming the incident in the program. In MG Truini Palomba, The kitchen Abina, Muzzio, Padova, 1991, p. 189. The practice sets at 50-60 kg ment ideal of a lean mix of pork. At Viterbo until you get a ton. Also in Viterbo, and particularly in Bagnaia and onsuetudine to leave in the belly of the pig liver alone. The other organ, together with the trotters, are placed in a pan below the belly dell’arrostito so fat, oozing with the other smells, good flavor to well. It is clear from the so-called “Piattelli”, frequent return of gourmet butcher. See I. Rams, Tuscia at the table, Primaprint, 1996 Viterbo, P. 148. A flint (RI) and also allowed the use of pepper. Gioahino Belli (Safe Care, 1608 Edition Vigolo) fixed six pounds, or two pounds a binge of historic Roman people. And Iannattoni Livy (Roman cuisine of Lazio, Newton Compton, Rome 1998, p 270) rightly shows the beautiful page of Gadda That Awful Mess on the Via Merulana limbonitore Ariccini which promises “the beautiful woods of rosemary porcaco de in the belly. ” Unfortunately the roast pig of civilization in danger of being compromised by magromania. The artifacts on display today in the meat fairs may appease those living under the nightmare of cholesterol or dishes to prepare, Otherwise, there is, to the spouse. Not who has experienced over the course of a lifetime, the combination of pork Homer’s “healthy fat” (Odyssey XIV, 410). And while we’re at: maiaccorti were the singers of that false history called “Mediterranean diet” that the ultimate Mediterranean, the Greeks of Homer, nothing you do over eat meat, beef and pork, never indulge in refreshments a salad? Nestor’s slave, had already invented the cocktail Ecamede (pramnio wine, grated goat cheese, onion, flour), but the rocket was still to come. (Iliad XI, 850 and. Monti). An account and to celebrate, with the famous Ancel Keys, the virtues of cooking oil, you probably can not be beaten, another attribute to the peoples of the Mare Nostrum models of eating behavior never practiced, except perhaps by slaves and the poor. At risk to define the Mediterranean diet as that from which they fled as soon as they could.

razor clams with fennel and lovage


English: Razor clams. Español: Navajas.

Image via Wikipedia

Razor clams also known as atlantic jack knife clams, or jack knife clams, are absolutely delicious. They are fun to catch, amazingly so. Just find their keyhole shaped hole, pour some salt into the hole, and add water. Then wait, they will erupt from their hole wait till you see the shell and grab it. This is one of the only two ways to get them. You cannot dig them. They will out dig a clam digger by a long shot.

4 pounds razor clams, scrubbed
fennel bulb, trimmed, cut into 1-inch cubes or thinly sliced
1/4 cup apple cider vinegar and 3/4 cup white grape juice
1/3 cup Sutter home
1/4 cup Olive oil
1 cup lovage leaves or celery leaves, divided
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 cloves garlic minced
1/2 cup bread crumbs
parsley finely chopped (about 1/4-1/2 cup)

Heat a large heavy pot over high heat until very hot. Add Razors, fennel, verjus, and wine. Cover and cook, stirring frequently, until Razors fully open (discard any that do not open). Using a slotted spoon, transfer Razors and fennel to a serving platter.

Simmer liquid in pot for 1 minute; whisk in butter and 1/2 cup lovage leaves. Season to taste with salt and pepper and additional vinegar if using grape juice. Spoon over razors, leaving any sediment behind. Garnish Razors with remaining 1/2 cup lovage leaves 1/4 cup parsley and serve immediately with lots of crunchy bread to sop up the broth.

If you want to catch your own, there are some good videos on youtube on finding razor clams. You can eat them whole. I’ve done it with them raw. There is no real specialty in cooking them, or removal of organs or anything like that. Some people are just too picky to enjoy a good thing.

guanciale


Guanciale, from the italian word guancia meaning cheek. This is a type of bacon from Italy made from the cheeks, or jowls and the neck of a pig. If you can find it. It is expensive. 60 bucks for 3 pounds is not uncommon. Guanciale comes from umbria, lazio, central Italy. So since my relative came from Lazio and Campania to me it is very special. You see many recipes calling for pancetta. Pancetta is very good, but it lacks the delicateness that Guanciale has. So I’m going to teach you how to make Guanciale at home. Thats right at home!

 

2lb pork jowl/cheek or neck

70 grams kosher salt (7% of meat weight)

70 grams sugar (7% of meat weight)

15 black peppercorns

1 large bunch of thyme

70 grams fennel seed

2 bay laurel leaves (look for genuine bay laurel, not the pungent Californian bay)

4 juniper berries

Grind up the juniper, peppercorns, fennel seeds and bay laurel in a spice grinder until reasonably fine. Combine with the salt and sugar. Remove the leaves from the thyme, discard the stalks, and finely chop. Add to the salt mixture, and stir to combine.

Using a sharp boning knife or pairing knife remove any glands from the meat.  These will look like small off-white bumps that are reasonably hard. Some might be hiding under some fat. Yes you will have to feel the meet up looking for them hard glands.

In a zip lock bag combine the cure ingredients and the jowl. Rub the cure into the meat on all sides thoroughly. Seal the bag, or the tupperware and pop in the fridge for 7 days. After 3 days into the 7 day period redistribute the cure over the meat just by rubbing the meat again.

After 7 days the meat should feel firmer. Take it out of the fridge, and rinse it in cold water to remove the cure. Some of the herbs might stick to the meat and fat, that is fine just extra flavor, and then just give a good rub over to get the cure off, you can wipe it with a towel as you dry the meat off.

Make a hole in one end, not too close to the edge of the meat, you want it about an inch from the edge (since it will shrink). Tie some butchers string through the hole, and hang at 55F 75% humidity for at least a month, possibly two.

You will know when the jowl is cured because it should feel firm to the touch. The fat will feel softer than the meat, that is fine. It is essential that the temprature is 55F and 75% humidity. Anything else just won’t do.

Once cured it should keep in the fridge easily for a few weeks, or if you  freeze it longer. You can keep it hanging at 55F and 75% humidity too if you wish which will result in the meat hardening more, but it will develop an even stronger flavor.

Give this a try, subsitute this for pancetta in your next recipe….throw it in your slow cooked bake beans….the uses are endless.

 

Everything on olives from the tree to table


Everything on curing olives from the tree. You can’t just pick the from the tree and eat them. They are way too bitter and it will make you sick. This bitter compound called oleuropein is a bitter carbohydrate. Curing removes oleuropein, making them absolutely delicious. In this article olive is hyper-linked and will bring you to the wikipedia page where they are discussed but not in a in depth process on curing them like I’ve gone into here. BEWARE this article contains lye curing information and for safety, never add water to unmixed lye, always add lye to water. If your going to print this, it is 19 pages long!

The easiest is to take them and out fresh, ripe olives in a pillowcase with an equal weight of salt. Hang outside. Shake up every day or two. When edible, rinse and pack in oil. This dates back to ancient greece, with the exception of the pillow case. These are really really strongly flavored. This is called dry curing. There are 3 different ways, including this easy way.

There are many other ways though.

Water Curing “Smashed” or “Cracked” Olives is great for large green olives.

Wash olives. With stone or mallet, crack the meat of the olive, taking care not to bruise the pit. Put the olives in a pan and cover with cold water for 6-8 days, changing the water twice a day, morning and evening, until the bitterness is gone (taste to test). When ready, fill the pan with brine * (about 1 part sea salt to 10 parts water) and lemon juice (about 1 part lemon juice to 10 parts water), transfer to jars if desired, and refrigerate for several hours before eating.

There is brine curing.

Brine curing is wonderful for small black olives after they’ve been pitted. Place them in a pan topped with brine. (1 part sea salt to 10 parts water) Cover them and place something ontop to hold them down and keep them submerged. It takes about 3 weeks, shaking the pan each day and changing the brine each week, then taste for bitterness (they could take up to 5-6 weeks depending on the olives) When their to your liking, place in jars 4 tablespoons red wine vinegar and top off with a layer of olive oil ontop of the brine.

Dry (Salt) Curing #2 for large black olives

Outdoors, in a basket, burlap bag, or wooden box lined with burlap (this is to allows air to circulate), layer olives with coarse sea salt (you’ll need about 1 pound of salt for every 2 pounds of olives). Leave the olives outside (with plastic underneath to catch the juices that drain and preferably away from animal access) for 3-4 weeks, shaking daily and adding a little more salt every 2-3 days. Taste for bitterness (rinsing the olive first). When no longer bitter, you can either shake off excess salt and keep them that way, or shake off the excess salt and dip them quickly in boiling water to get rid of the salt. They can then be marinated for a few days in olive oil to regain plumpness (this type of curing will shrivel them but produce a really strong flavor that most people don’t like), or just coated well with olive oil (using your hands) before eating.

I get them wooden boxes for vegtables from out back behind some of the groceries store…or will make them out of wooden palates they get thrown out. Either way the burlap also keeps them from sitting on what ever nastyness might of been in contact with the wood before hand, I also like to take and add a lid to help keep animals from tearing the bag open to get at my poor olives.

dry curing #3 finally something to do with chipped mason jars!

In a mason jar with a chip in the mouth (I got plenty) Take and toss in your small olives. Alternate layers of olives with coarse salt. Every day shake them well for 3 weeks, add more salt to absorb the juices. Taste for bitterness after rinsing. If the olive is still bitter continue to cure. If their not bitter add warm water to cover, and add 4 tablespoons of red wine vinegar and top with olive oil. This way they will be ready to gnaw on after 4-5 days.

Oil curing

Cover in olive oil and leave them alone for several months. Test them to make sure their alright.

For the brine I got a few tips.

The water/salt ratio is perfect when a raw egg floats in it.

For cracked olives, when ready, transfer to a brine that’s less salty to keep for long periods.

There is also lye curing….wich I don’t recommend…

I believe it was the roman Rutilius Taurus Aemilianus Palladius who wrote in de re rustica.

Mix together a setier of passum, two handfuls of well-sifted cinders, a trickle of old wine and some cypress leaves. Pile all the olives in this mixture, saturate them with this paste in garnishing them with several layers, until you see it reach the edges of the containers.

Passum is freshly extracted grape juice if memory serves me right. So lye and ash water is quite interesting, as you get a lye cure and fermentation going at the same time. I’ve never had them this way, but it sounds very interesting.

The only olives today that use a lye cure are the French Lucques, Italian Cerignola and Spanish manzanilla.

Lye cured olives are not like the other types, as you must be using unripe green olives, with the exception of water cured. The lye cure softens the meat of the olive. You want to get good olives from a good tree. A stressed tree makes it week to the olive fly. A nasty pest, the larva of this nasty little bug burrows into an olive and eats it from within. Similar to the worm in an acorn. Like a acorn look for holes in your olives…if you find holes, get rid of them. The worm is not poisonous but I dislike my olives with worms in them. The worm leaves a scar like an acorn.

I do not think food grade lye vrs real lye has any real difference. A good lye though is red devil lye. It must be 100% lye….DO NOT USE DRAINO FOR THE LOVE OF GOD! So read the back of it, if it’s not 100% lye do not use it.

Wear glasses if you have them. Wear long sleeves and pants and closed shoes. You will probably not get lye on you, but better to be safe. I go one step further and use a dusk mask.

Pour 1 gallon of cold and only cold water. Pour this water into a stoneware pot, or glass container. DO NOT USE ALUMINUM! Aluminum reacts with lye it will make everything poisonous.

Add 3 tablespoons of lye to the water. Always add lye to water, not water to lye. A splash of unmixed lye can burn you. Stir well with a wooden spoon. AGAIN NO ALUMINUM!

From here, it’s smooth sailing.

You use cold water because the reaction between lye and water generates heat, and the hotter the lye-water solution, the softer the olives will become.

Stir them in with that wooden spoon and put something over all the olives so they do not float. This is vital. Olives exposed to air while curing turn black. Don’t worry, they will absorb the water and sink in a few hours, but to start you need to submerge them.

Let them sit like this for 12 hours at room temp. The solution is going into the olives breaking down the chemical molecules that makes them bitter called oleuropein. After 12 hours….pour them water down the drain.

This is where the lye curing process varies….extremist olive lovers think only 1 lye treatment of 12 hours provides the best results with the best flavor, while others recommend a second, third, and 4th soak at 12 hours a peice. I think their just fine with 1 treatment as they are much more flavorful. The only way I’d soak mine more then once, is if they were massive…wich case I’ll soak them again and check them for bitterness. No eating them isn’t bad, but it will give you indigestion. A small peice is best. A very small peice.

The water will be very dark in color. As fast as possible get the olives back into COLD water. If exposed to air long enough they turn black.

Now to cleanse them of the lye solution. The trick is to soak them in water 2-4 times a day for 3-6 days, depending on the size of the olives. After 2 days, taste one: It should be a little soapy, but not too bitter. It’ll be bland, and a little soft. Once the water runs clear you should lose that soapy taste.

It should now be time to brine them after you taste them to make sure they don’t taste soapy. Make a brine of 3/4 cup GOOD salt to 1 gallon of water. You will really taste the difference later on. Kosher salt is ok….I prefere Trapani. It is a very good sicilian salt. It’s not that bad on price, but it makes a world of a difference. Let them sit for a week in this brine. Then pour the brine off them and make a new brine using 1 cup of salt to 1 gallon of water.

Now here comes the fun part of this labor of love….Traditional spanish cure would add some vinegar to the mix with bay leaf and spices. I love to play with my olives depending what I am planning to use them on. Mexican I’ll add some mexican spices, like powdered pablano peppers and a touch of smoked salt, or various other flavors of mexico. My favorite is adding a touch of smoked salt, chiles, black pepper, coriander, mustard seed, and garlic.

They will be beautifully green. Very buttery, olive-y flavored and salty. This is the cadillac of olives.

I know lots of other ways…but after this article I am very tired.

Olive trees will not grow from zones 7 and below…UNLESS you grow them in containers…be aware…they can grow 10-25 feet…so don’t let them get so high you can’t get them through the door. Arbequina Olive trees are cold hardy…I’ve never tried getting them to grow here….

Alrighty…well rested here goes more on the curing of olives.

There are different stages of ripeness. There are 7 types of ripeness all based on color. Green ripe, wich are very green. There is also a slightly lighter green wich is also green ripe. Then there is yellow green to straw. Rose, then red brown,dark red or purple then naturally black.

Green ripe is best when harvested in mid september. When squeezed they will release a creamy white juice. Many people prefere to take and harvest them when they are evenly colored though. Black olives, or dark red to purple generally ripen on the tree and take 3-4 months to ripen after they first turn green. In california, mid november through to december is when their ready, though it heavily depends on a lot of factors, such as variety, yeild, weather conditions and region. When they reach the naturally black stage, they will release that dark olive juice you’d find in the can.

Brine cured are naturally fermented. The flavor is very unique. These are very hard to do, as they may take 3-6 months or longer to cure. It all depend on the salt concentration, acidity, trempature, maturity, and variety. Green ripe olives take longer to cure in brine then naturally black ripe olives. Greek style uses mature olives, wich are cured in a strong brine for several months, while the sicilian style are made with green ripe olives in a seasoned brine for 4-6 months. The salt reduced the chance of spoilage and ensures a sonsistant fermentation. They can be stored in brine for a year.

For the greek style, you always use mature dark red purplish olive. It must be firm and harvested before the frost. They also work with any olive variety. Manzanillo, mission and kalamata are most common though. Some olives will have their color fade, but the color can come back when expose to air. They will be marked by being slightly shriveled because of the high salt content of the brine used to preserve them, they will be somewhat fruity and bitter when finished. (I can hear my arteries crystalizing already)

You don’t need much, just fully matured olives, pickling salt, our trust milk jug and jars.

The olives will cure more evenly if they are all of a similar size.So I recommend sorting them by size and discarding any olive fly ridden olives. Pack the olives in a container, a 1 quart glass jar is the smallest size I’d recommend. Make a medium brine, 3/4 cup of pickling salt to every gallon of cool water. Cover the olives and close the lids loosely, let them sit 60-80 degrees, a cave in italy would be nice if you got one. After 7 days replace the brine with a strong brine. 1 1/2 cups of pickling salt per gallon of water. Close the lids firmly and store in the brine at least 2 months. If they are still too bitter for ya, and they most likely will be, change the brine every month with another batch of strong brine for the next 2-3 months.

Remember these olives are fermenting as well…Check them daily! If the gas pressure builds up it will caue the lids to buldge, loosen them. The gas is naturally produced by the bacteria that are helping fermentation. If the brine begins to leak out, replace it with more brine. 1 1/2 cups pickling salt to 1 gallon water. If you like the olives fairly bitter, you can eat them and or cook with them after 2 month of storage, but they will be less bitter at 3 months.

Like all jarred stuff, cool dark place in the brine for a year if it remains air tight, the lids don’t corrode, for up to a year. This will help with yeast and mold.

REFRIGERATE after opening. You can also soak them in water over night to reduce saltiness before eating them straight. They can also be topped off with olive oil and left in the fridge, but before using let them sit at room temp as the oil might turn into jelly.

Sicilian style olives, are pretty much similar to spanish style cocktail olives, but are more bitter cause they are fermented in seasoned brine. The commercial cocktail olives are cured with lye *horrified gasp*. For these true cocktail olives, ue green ripe olives of any variety, but I like sevillano olives, and only use green ripe, the rose or red brown colored olives will often and not hold up during the curing process.

You need the following, green ripe olives, dill pickling pices or desired seasonings, pickling salt, 5% acetic acid vinegar, jars and milk jug.

Can sort them to size, no real use. Pack the olives in quarts or half gallon jars. In each container add your desired seasonings, GET CREATIVE, experiment, though dill pickling spice is nice. 1 level tablespoon per quart jar, or 1 rounded tablespoons per 2 quart jar. You might like fennel seed, 1/2 teaspoon per quart, maybe some fresh fennel or dill, with chopped garlic, or you might like hot wich would use whole peppercorns and whole dried chili peppers. I prefere hot, great in sweet cool martinis.

Now we must make the brine. The brine all depends on the olives. Larger olives shrivel easily in strong brines, like sevillano and ascolanos. For larger olives you need a medium strong brine, 1 cup pickling salt per 1 gallon of water. For small olives like manzanillo and mission varieties they don’t shrivel easily, a strong brine works bet, 1 1/2 cups of pickling salt per gallon of water.

Add 2 cups of vinegar to each gallon of brine cover in the jars or barrel with brine vinegar mixture and loosely cover. They should be stored at 70 degrees for about 2 months, keep checking them, the fermentation will be very rapid at tempratures between 70-90 degrees, during the first 4-5 days there will be large amounts of gas, and excessive foaming and frothing…Replace any lost brine, keep them full at all times. Replacement brine should be 1 cup of pickling salt plus 1 2/3 cup of vinegar for ever gallon of water. When the bubbling stops, about 2 months maybe less, tighten the lids and let them sit for 2-4 months until the olives develop their flavor. They can be stored in a cool dark place for 1 year in brine when properly fermented. ALWAYS CHECK the lids, they can corrode quick.
Ripe olives bruise easily, and their flesh is nearly completely pigmented, if they are pigmented to the pit, they are considered over ripe. Over ripe will be super soft after being cured, but are great when dried.

Each variety of olive is best for different processing. They are judged on flavor, texture, size, and processing characteristics.

Manzanillo variety is best for lye cured olive and spanish style green olive, while the mission variety is wonderful for dry salt cured ripe olves and dark ripe styles, or california black ripe style, while the kalamata olives is best for kalamata style water cured olives and the sevillano variety is delicious when used for a sicilian style fermented olives.

Olives need to be stored properly. They should be processed within a few days after harvest. Green ripe store better then naturally black ripe olives. I find the best temprature is between 41 and 50 degrees f. A shallow ventilated crate i best. If you store olives between 32 and 36 degrees f for 2 weeks or more, they can get chill injury wich will lead to internal browning and skin browning. So limit them to short exposure. Sevillano olives are the most likely to get chill injury, then ascolano, manzanillo, with miion being least likely. 6 weeks or more of storage of fresh olive at 50 degrees will lead to surface pitting and spotting.

Lye curing is the most rapid and efficient process for de-bittering olives. Though they are seen by many as less flavorful then other style. Brined usually undergo a natural fermentation like dill pickles and sauerkraut. Acids during fermentation process the lactic aci bacterial that are present on the olives giving them a very distinctive flavor and aroma. Brined olives are saltier then lye cured. Water curing does not change the flavor much.

The shelf life of olives you make at home depend on the olive style. You can freeze, dry, presure can, etc different types of olives.

I will go indepth to these other preserving methods. First let’s note what you can do to preerve your home made olives.

Water cured olives have 2 varieties. Kalamata style, and meditteranean style. Both are suitably preserved by a finishing brine, wich is a vinegar salt solution that will add the characteristic flavors. They an be eaten within a few weeks, and will be slightly more bitter then other methods. They can also be refrigerated.

Brine cured olives have 2 types as well. Greek style black olives in brine, and sicillian style green olives in brine. Of course a finishing brine works nicely but they can also be tossed into the fridge.

Dry salt cured can be refrigurated and frozen. Frozen however is best for smaller olives with high oil content such as kalamatas, picholine, mission, where as larger olives like barouni, ascolano, and sevillano will get softer when frozen.

Lye cured olives also have 2 different styles, green olives, and dark ripe style olives. They can both be brined, refrigged, frozen, dried, and pressure can.

Then there is lye cured fermented olives, such as spanish style green olives. These can be brined, refrigerated, and pressure canned.

There is two types of olives you see in stores that are water cured.

Kalamata olives are cut then water cured. Mediterranean style cracked olives.

Kalamata style water cured olives are best with dark red or purple black olives. They should be firm, and harvested before the first frost. They should be oil ritch, like mission or kalamata olives. Sevillano olives will become too soft.

You will need pickling salt, red wine vinegar, olive oil and jars along with a 1 gallon milk jug.

If you want you can sort your olives by size and discard any bruised or iffy olives. Give them a good rinse in water and let drain. Witha knife cut 2 lengthwise cuts on each olive, you only wanna go 1/8th inch into the olive.

Place the olives in your jars, over with fresh cool water, keep them ubmerged by placing something ontop of them. (I use sandwich baggys with dried beans to hold them down) Close the lid loosely and leave them to soak for 24 hours. Cover again with cool water, repeat change daily for 8-10 days based on your desired level of desired bitterness. If you want them less bitter soak up to 20 days, keep changing that water daily.

Keep an eye on your olives, over soaking will lead to soft olives with a washed out taste.

To make a finish brine, add 1 1/2 cups pickling salt to 1 gallon of cool water. stir and dissolve then add 4 cups red wine vinegar. This will treat 10 pounds of olives.

Drain your olives, cover with the finish brine, and add 1/4 to 3/8ths of an inch olive oil on top. Close the container lid firmly, and store 60-80 degrees. They will marinate in thi vinegar salt solution for about 1 month and develop their flavor that many kalamata lovers desire. They can be stored for 1 year in a cool dark place, or refrigerated providing the container remain air tight.

Their counter part I briefly covered is the mediterranean style crack olives and is personally my favorite. The reason is, I like to spice my olives for certain dishes. Like for a tomato olive relish ontop of a nice swordfish steak, I’ll use a bit of lemon, galic and oregano seasining.

To do this, you will need green ripe olives, pickling salt, white wine vinegar, herbs or other seasonings, jars, and 1 gallon milk jug.

Again you can sort them. I just remove the wormed ones. Then rinse them. Instead of slicing them, you get 2 at a time on a cutting board and strike them with the flat side of a mallet, just to crack the fleh, do not break the pits or remove them. Place them in a jar covered in water, keep them submerged.Cover and submerge let them oak 6-7 days, if you want them less bitter no more then 3 days. Keep changing the water daily.

Prepare the finishing brine, 1 1/2 cups of pickling salt to 1 gallon of cool water, with 2 cup of white wine vinegar. This will treat 10 pounds of olives.

Now that they are in their brine, you can take and add spice to them now. Chopped oregano, garlic and some lemon slices. Seal container, and refrigerate. They are best if kept refrigerated, and will be ready to eat after 4 days….HOWEVER I let mine sit longer, for upto a week to let the flavor develop more. They are best stored in the friged for a year in the brine.

Dry salt cured I mentioned in my previous post, the pillow case.

These are doen with dark red to black fully ripe oil rich olives like mission olives, but others will work. Small olives are best, large ones will soften too much. Salting dehydrates the olive and they will be soft moist (don’t know how they will still be moist they just are) and shriveled. They are ready to eat 5-6 weeks after you start the salting processs. They will be salty and bitter as they don’t remove as much of the bitter oleuropein. They are best stored for up to 6 months in the fridge but they can be stored for longer in the freezer.

You will need a dark red to purplish black olive, pickling salt, a slat wood box, wicker, or plastic basket/bin, cheese cloth or nylon mesh and jars.

Sort them removed bruised and wormed olives. Prepare a large container like a slat wood box or large wicker basket. It will most likely stain…so don’t use a favorite pillow case. A plastic bin with drainage holes in the bottom is good and line it with nylon mesh or cheese cloth. Place it outside under cover, or over a large pan so the draining brine won’t ruin the floor (first time experiance). Raise the container on blocks to improve air circulation around the bottom.

Now you must weigh the olives. 1 1/2 cups of pickling salt for every 2 pounds of olives. Mix the salt and olives very thoroughly in the container to distribute the salt and prevent molding. pour 1 inch additional pickling salt over the olives. Cover them with cheesecloth and let sit 60-80 degrees f.

After a week remix the salted olives by pouring them into a clean pail an then back into the first container add a small layer of salt ontop, cover the container with clean cloth and let it stand. Repeat once a week for the next month. When the olives are ready pour them over a coarse screen to sift out any left over salt. Allow them to dry overnight at room temp.

Before storing, add 1 1/2 cup of pickling alt to each 10 pound of cured olives. Mix them with the salt and pack into jars. Store in a cool place and use within a month or refrigerate them for 6 months or a freezer in a plastic container for a year, They will beome rancid if tored longer. You can use them for cooking or eating out of hand. They can be dipped into boiling water to remove salt and allow them to air dry and them rub with a little olive oil and are delicious when you add herbs such as rosemary before serving. (a staple during holidays when 60 pounds of olives are consumed between thanksgiving and christmas in my family)

As covered before lye will react with certain materials. Safe materials are stainless steel, cast iron, enamelware, glass, stoneware thats heat proof, wooden barrels and house hold plastics intended for food.

Lye is multipurpose, if you make your own soap, you may have some make sure it’s 100%, it is also ued for peeling some peaches, and preparing food suh a lutefisk (sandinavian dish) and hominy.

Use light colored containers as dark colors may leach color into your food. If you must use a dark colored container, soak it for a few days using 4 tablespoons of flake lye, or 3 level tablespoons of grnaular lye to 1 gallon of water…ALWAYS ADD LYE TO THE WATER< NOT WATER TO THE LYE. Rinse the container thoroughly before use.

Metals like, aluminum, tin, lead zinc galvanices metal with lye, will corrode and ruin containers and give off hydrogen gas. Zinc in galvanized coatings will make everything poisonous. A face shield ruber apron and rubber boots are recommended.

There is two types of pure lye, granular, and flake. Use an accurate scale to measure it. Stir the solutions until the lye is completely disolved. There is heat involved. You must keep the solution to 65-70 degree, before using it with olives other wise the olives will soften and discolor. Use a digital thermometer to check the temprature.

Keep it in a moisture resistant container and away from children or pets.

PLANNING IS KEY…you mut dispose of the lye solution after. So keep it somewhere near a drain, like a laundry sink, or spare bathtub. This way your not carrying big buckets of corrosive solutions through the pout and carefully pour the lye solution and rinse what ever your pouring the solution into very well. It will enter the community water treatment system then get cleaned. You must not pour it into storm sewers. Rinse everything very well.

First first aid…if it gets on your skin, take off any lothes touched by the lye, rinse the skin with lukewarm water for at least 15 minute, and call poison control.

If it gets into your eye, rinse your eye with lukewarm water for at least 15 minutes and call poison control.

If you swallowed it…give small sips of water or milk immeiately, call poison control, and don’t throw up. If you fall unconscious convulsing or having a hard time breathing or swallowing call 911…WORK WITH SOMEONE when using lye. If your out cold or convulsing…you cannot operate the phone.

There are two styles green and dark ripe style, both made with green ripe olives, the brown black color of the dark ripe style happens when you expose it during the lye curing process. There is natural phenolic compound in the olives they react with oxygen and create the black color similar to oxidization of an apple.

Lye cured olives can be store for 2 months in a brine or they can be stored for longer periods by freezing, drying or pressure canning.

For green ripe olives look for green, straw colore or slighty red fruit, and it is best to look for the same degree of ripeness and size for even curing. This will produce straw yellow or green brown olives that are ready to eat within 2 weeks after the start of the lye treatment.

Green straw colored or slightly red olives, protective equipment, 100% pure lye, lye resistant containers and utensils, cheese cloth or nylon mesh, pickling salt, 1 gallon milk jug and glass containers to hold the olives in brine.

Sort your olives, This is so the lye can penetrate all the olives in that batch at a more even rate, discard black ripe, or bruised or wormy olives.Place the olives according to size into different lye resistant containers. Prepare a lye solution using 2 ounces of lye, roughly 4 level tablespoons of flake lye, or 3 level tablespoons of granular lye to every gallon of cold water. The solution will heat up, add lye to water not water to lye, cool the solution to 65 to 70 degrees f before use.

Cover your olives with the cooled lye solution. you will need to check them regularly over the next 12 hours, so keep it in mind for a day off of work and nothing better to do. Place a cheesecloth or nylon mesh over the olives and weigh them down firmly with a heavy plate to keep the olives submerged. This will keep them from darking. You must avoid exposing them to air during the lye treatment. Stir every 2 hours until the lye reaches the pits, it will take usually 10-12 hours. Check every hour or 2 to look for lye penetration.

To test for lye penetration, remove several olives from the lye solution with saintless steel poon and rinse under lots of running water, cut the olive with a sharp knife. The lye will take the flesh from white or slightly brown to a yellowish green color. Olives with lye penetration will be yellowish green uniformilyfrom the skin to the pit. If the lye has not penetrated it, you will see milky white flesh surrounding the pit and extending out to where the flesh is lye discolored. Check your olives before taking and tossing them into the lye to see what color the flesh is exactly.

If the lye has not penetrated to the pit, carefully drain off the lye solution. Cover the olives with a cool fresh lye solution using 1 ounce of lye, 2 level tablespoons of lye flake or 1 level tablespoon plus 1 level teaspoon granular lye per gallon of water, let stand until lye penetration is complete, this might take 30 hours if the olives are extremely green. Sometimes the second lye treatment is not effective because some olives neutralize most of the lye before it can penetrate to the pits. If this happens traing off the olives again and cover them with a cool fresh lye solution, 3 level tablespoons of flake lye, or 2 level tablespoons of granular lye to every gallon of water. Let the olives stand until you test the olives for lye penetration and it’s uniformily yellowish green.

Drain off the lye solution and rince the olives twice with cold water, and let them stand in fresh cold water completely covered. For the next few days change the water 2 times a day to wash the olives of lye. Work quickly to drain and cover the olives with fresh water to limit the exposure to air. Thi will help keep them from darkening, after 2-3 days begin to taste the olives regularly until they no longer taste soapy. This may need to be done for 7-8 days depending on the olives and regularity of rinsing and the volume of water used. The color will gradually change from olive green to a lighter yellow to a pink and then to clear. When the washing is complete (water will be clear) drain the water from the olives. They must then be brined, wich is a short term storage. To brine them they will keep for 2 weeks. Prepare a light brine, containing 6 level tablespoons of pickling salt for ever gallon of water. Cover the olives with brine and let stand for 2 days. If the brine turns slightly pink, there is still some lye present, wash them again until all the lye is removed. After standing in brine for 2 days they are ready for use. They can be refrigerated for up to 2 weeks in a tightly covered container.

If you wanna store them longer, like for 2 months…prepare a medium brine uing 3/4 cup of pickling salt per gallon of water. Store the olives for 1 week in the brine, drain and replace with a strong brine, made with 1 1/2 up of pickling salt per gallong of water. After 10-12 day replace with brine again, 1 1/2 cups to 1 gallon of water. It is really important with larger olives that you gradually increase the brine strength to prevent shriveling. These can be stored in the fridge for 2 months tightly covered. They can soak over night to remove some of the alt then use them within 3 days.

For dark ripe style olives, the method is a bit more labour intensive. you require the same equipment, except there is 5 lye treatments.

Sort your olives place into lye resistant containers. For the first lye treatment, you use 3 level tablespoons of lye flake, or 2 level tablespoons of granular lye to every gallon, cool the solution to 65-70 degree. Pour the cooled solution over the olives and cover them complete. Start checking after 3 hours and then test for lye penetration (yellowish green flesh), it should penetrate just under the skin. Pour off the lye solution and let them sit in the air for a day. Gently stir them 3 times evenly paced during the day.

The second lye solution you prepare 3 level tablepoons of lye flake or 2 level tablespoons of granular lye to every gallon of water. Pour it over the olives and keep checking them. Your looking for lye penetration of 1/32 to 1/16th of an inch into the flesh, pour off the solution and let them sit in the air for a day.

The 3rd lye treatment, 3 level tablespoons of flake lye or 2 level tablepoons of granular lye to 1 gallon of water…soak them for another 3 hours and begin checking them, your looking for penetration of 1/8th to 3/16ths into the flesh and drain and let them chill out for a day.

the 4th lye treatment 3 level tablespoons of flake lye or 2 level tablespoons granular lye to 1 gallon of water. Soak another 3 hours and check again every half hour. Your looking for penetration between 3/16th to 5/16th of an inch into the flesh, pour off the solution and let them hang about for a day.

For the 5th and thankfully finally lye treatment, 4 level tablespoons of flake lye or 3 level tablespoon of granular lye, to every gallon, keep the solution to 65-70 degrees pour over the olives and let it penetrate to the pits. Pour off the solution and let them sit in the air for a day. Cover with cold water and change it 2 times a day, after 2-3 days check for taste. If they still taste soapy keep washing. This may take 7-8 days. Over washing will leave them rather bland and washed out tasting.

Drain the water cover the olives with brine and let stand for 2 days before eating. A light brine is nice to start, 6 level tablespoons of pickling salt for every gallon of water, and they will keep while refrigerated for 2 weeks in a tightly covered container. For a longer life, over with a strong brine 1 1/2 cups of pickling salt for every gallon of water. the olives will keep for 3 months in this strong brine, and can soak them over night in water to remove excess salt, but eat them within the next 3 days.

Next lye cured fermented olives…Sevillano and manzanillo olives are excellent but same degree of size and ripeness is key to even curing. The olive will have a light flesh and light brownish buff pit. They will be ready to eat 2 months after you start the lye treatment but will be much more flavorful after 6 months in the brine.

Take and sort the olives, remove bruised olives, blackened ripe fruit, and defective.

For sevillano olives prepare a lye solution of 4 level tablespoons of flake lye or 3 level tablespoons of granular lye per gallon of cold water. The servillano olive will blister and peel if you use a stronger lye solution…

For manzanillo and mission olives, prepare a stronger lye solution, using 5 level tablespoons of flake lye, or 3 1/2 level tablespoons of granular lye per gallon of cold water. Thee olives are more bitter then other varieties but don’t blister or peel as easily. The solution will heat up during mixing. Cool 65-70 degrees f.

Cover olives with cooled solution, place clean cheesecloth or nylon mesh over the olive and weigh down firmly with a plate to keep them submerged or they will darken. Keep them submerged as it is undersirable for the color to change.

Let the olives stand and allow the lye to penetrate the olive flesh 3/4 of the way to the pit, this may take at least 5 hours. Check every 1-2 hours by looking for the tell tale yellowish greenish color change in a sliced olive.

When the penetration i complete pour them off quickly, cover with cold water, change the water 3-4 times during the next 24-50 hours to wash the lye. Avoid air exposure to keep them from darking. Do not wash the olives more frequently then this as you would leech out the sugars needed for fermentation. After 24 hours taste for the soapy lye taste. The olives will still be slightly bitter.

The brine is dependant on the size of the olives. For small olives like manzanillo and mission varieties wich don’t shrivel easily, mix a strong brine 1 1/2 cups pickling salt to 1 gallon of water. For large olives like sevillano and ascolano varietie, wich will shrivel easily make a medium brine. 1 cup of pickling salt to 1 gallon of water. After washing them pack in jars. Fill the containers with the brine loosely close the container lits. For small quantities quart size jars are best, for larger quantities of olives 1-5 gallong glass jars, food grade pails, kegs, or large oak barrels. 1 gallon of olives in brine is about 5 1/2 pounds of olives.

Add starter cultures of lactic acid bacteria at thi point. You can get the culture from unheated dill pickle or sauerkraut brine. If you don’t make them you can get them from unheated commercial deli products, though they are a specialty. Do not use canned sauerkraut or dill pickled brine as they don’t contain the active bacteria. Add this brine at a rate of 3/4 of a cup per gallon of olives and brine.

Store the olives below 100 degrees, best is 70-90 degrees. During this period of 4-5 days gas will build up along with foaming and frothing take care and replace the lost brin. Then when the gas production i no so violent tighten the lids to keep air out and minimize surface yeast and mold, replacement brine should be made of 1 cup of pickling salt to 1 gallon of water.

After 2-6 months in brine the olives are done, but will be much more flavorful with longer fermentation. Fermentation is complete when they have the desired acidity and characteristic taste of spanish style green olives. They can be stored in a dark place for 1 year providing it is cool and dry.

Now for preserving your cured olives….consentrated brine.

Cured olives can be preserved in heavily concentrated brine and stored at room temp for 8-0 months. A very strong brine is 2 1/2 cup of pickling salt per gallon of water. Cover the olives with the brin let stand after 2 days, add 1 cup of pickling salt for each gallon of brine mix will after 2 more days add another cup mix well and store tightly. Before eating them for heavens sake wash them 4 times over a 2 day period.

Olives with a high oil content can be frozen. They are mission, kalamata and picholine varieties. If they are dry salt cured or lye cured, but others will be too soft when frozen. Lye cured olves must be boiled in brine before freezing them. Place them in a stainless steel sauce pan and over with a light brine, 6 level tablespoons of salt to 1 gallon of water, boil in brine for 10-15 minute. This will redue softening. Pack them in air tight containers without brine, into freezer bags to prevent them from drying out at 0 degrees for up to 1 year, the same with dry cured olives just toss them into freezer bags and freeze them nothing else needed. Before serving allow them to thaw. You can roll thawed olives in olive or salad oil with garlic and other seasonings.

Drying olives is removing water from food to preserve it. You can do it with lye cured green and dark ripe olives without having further treatment. You can do it in the sun or home dehydrator. You can also dry naturally black ripe olives. These are first blanched and then brine treated for 3 days before drying in the sun or the dehydrator. Black ripe olives will be slight bitter. Dried olives are good in cooking or eating out of hand without the need to soak. The amount of time it take to dry the olives depend on this moisture content. It also depends on the olive variety and size, the volume of being dried, the air’s humidity during the drying process and the dehydrato’s efficiency. Naturally black ripe olives need to be pretreated. Place them in boiling water for 3 minute drain them olives and place them into a food grade plastic, glass, or stainless steel container. Cover them with a strong brine. 1 1/2 cups of pickling salt per gallon of cool water close loosely. Store for 3 days and then drain them off. They are now ready for drying.

Now sun drying is my favorite. The high salt and oil content of cured or pretreated natually black olives make them wonderful for outdoor drying when the conditions are right. You need a minimum temprature of 85 degreens and less then 60% humidity. In these conditions sun drying takes 5-6 days. Birds and insects will be attracted to them. I find the best way of fighting this off…is with a very fine mesh net to keep the birds off of them, and covering the container in fine nylon. There are other methods though. I’m sure the same way you’d do tomatoes would suffice…only 5-6 days if conditions are right…If not you can do them in a dehydrator.

Set your dehydrator for 140 degrees, if no thermostat, use an easy to read thermometer on the bottom tray, arrange whole pretreated black ripe or lye cured olives on drying trays in single layers so they don’t touch or over lap. Leave 1-2 inches between trays. You may need to rotate them up and down the stack as they dry. It will take roughly 20-24 hours.

After drying cool them for 30-60 minutes before packaging. Don’t pack warm olives, a that would lead to sweating and moisture. You should also avoid long delay as they can reabsorb moisture from the air and spoil later.

Dried olives are to be stored in plastic bags and airtight containers. Pack the olives tight in the bag or container removing as much air a possible. Metal containers need them in plastic bag first to prevent reaction with the metal. They will keep for 3-4 months in a cool place, but they become rancid if stored longer. You can keep them in the freezer for a year. You can rehydrate them by soaking them in slightly salted water. 1/2 cup salt per gallon of water until plump, 8-12 hours add garlic and spices if you wish.

You can can cured olives as well…You need to use a pressure canner. They are low acid foods and need tempratures of 240 degrees for proper sterilization and safe canning. They can only be reached under pressure. That means no bath canning and no steam canning.

The best olives for home canning include lye cured and lye cured fermented. They must be left whole, not minced crushed chopped or sliced then packed in brine.

weighted gauge, 10 for sea level to 1000 ft, 15 for 1001-2000, 15 for 2001-4000, 15 for 4001-600, 15 for 6000+

dial gauge, 11 sea level -1000ft, 11 for 1001-2000, 12 to 2001-4000, 13 for 4001-6000, 14 for 6000+

They will need to be packed in brine for 60 minutes for pints, or 70 minutes for quarts. Control the heat to keep the pressure contant.

After processing in the canner finish turn off heat, leave it be while it cools don’t move it tilt it set it on a cold surface don’t sneeze on it, drool on it etc. Wait for the guage to read zero, or time the weighted ones 30 minute for pints, 45 minutes for quarts.

Lift with jar lifter from the canner. Place on towel board or cooling rack not a cold surface. Bubbling is normal. Do not tighten any loose ring bands after processing, retightening may damage the seal. Leave them for 24 hours to cool completely. Test the jar lid by pressing in the middle it should not move and be depressed. They will stay for 1 year after that their quality will start to decline.

Steam pockets will form in the flesh of the olives creating honeycombing, this is that harmless but will loose their firmness.

If the jars don’t seal reprocess with a new metal lid. Reprocess them again for 60-70 minutes depending on the jar.

If olives become soft bad smelling or moldy during processing or curing or preserving, don’t eat them or taste them. If they appear spoiled, or have corroded lids, buldging container or oozing from under the lid get rid of it.

I learned olives will soften because of….over ripe olives being used, allowing olives to overheat, the action of enzymes during prolonged storage before processing, the lye solution is too strong or the solution i too hot. The action of microorganisms such as molds yeasts and bacteria will also do it. These molds and bacteria will produce pectin degrading enzymes. The pectin acts as a cement holding the olive ferm. They will soften within 2 weeks in the presence of the enzymes. So check them periodically and remove any scum that forms ontop of it. If it’s microbial it is sporadic and may not occur in all containers. Make sure you store the olives properly as outlined in this massive guide.

Blisters will form with green olives if the lye solution is too strong. The skin will lift and blister or peel during the lye curing. Blistered olives are safe to eat but raise questions from dinner guests. Some bacterial can also caue it. These are called fish eyes and grow under the skin producing gas and forming blisters. If they are deeper inside the olive they can cause gas pockets to form in the olives. This is usually caused during the washing process that follows the lye soak, change the water at frequent intervals until the washing process is finished and your golden.

Foaming during lye treatment signals that the overripe olives have reached their maximum oil content. Excess oil reacts with the lye, causing them to foam. If it happens drain the olives and place them into fresh lye solution.

Well their are factors to consider when growing olives. Climate, soil and variety all play a part.

Olive trees like hot summers and cool winters.

An average daily temperature in January, for example, should be no
higher than 53.6 degrees F, covering a range from 32 degrees F overnight to
69.5 degrees F at noon. The trees will set flower buds only after being exposed to cool nights and warm days during winter. Warm day/cool night vernalization is essential for fruit bud development. It is important to note that if a tree is exposed to three or more days of 70 degrees F temperatures or higher during the winter months followed by a hard freeze, damage to the tree may occur. So I do not see why they won’t grow north of san antonio as long as climate is met.

The cold resistance is a varietal trait specific to some varieties of olives.

The damage to leaves and small stems happens at 17 degrees F and more severe damage at 12 degrees F. Trees can be killed to the ground with temperatures below 10 degrees F, but an extensive root systems allows mature trees to regenerate after a severe freeze.

The olive can withstand low temperatures of about 14 degrees F to 17.6 degrees F and lower for brief periods, providing thawing proceeds slowly and the tree is not actively growing.

I sugguest talking to the local master horticulturalist. They will know better what trees would survive the cold winter temperatures common in parts of Texas.

Olives will grow in hilly, rocky areas unsuitable for other crops. They
do not like heavy soils that hold excess water after rainfall. Soils must be welldrained for commercial olive production. In fact, some growers believe that the ability of the soil to drain well is the most important characteristic for olive tree production.

The soil must not be too acidic. The optimal is pH of 6.5 to 8.0 but can be changed by a simple method such as adding agricultural lime.

When choosing an olive growing location, it is also important to plant them on a southern facing hill. This gives them the optimum amount of sunlight while also giving excellent water run off.

Climate, disease resistance and the desired product – oil, table fruit or
both – are the main criteria for selecting the olive tree. Table fruit should be chosen by
yield, olive size and suitability for commercial processing or home processing on a small scale, 3-4 maybe 8 trees is plenty to keep you and the family busy.

For olive oil, flavor and shelf-life should be considered. Milder flavors can sometimes result in a shorter shelf life of olive oil..

Table olives should have a firm texture and a 6:1 flesh-to-pit ratio. If
black olives are desired, select a variety with a relatively even ripening stage.

An olive will yield between 10 percent to 25 percent of its weight in oil.

Italian Varieties:

Frantoio – medium fruit known chiefly for high-quality oil. It is self-fertile, and
sets fruit early. Fruit should be picked when it is green and purple. The olive’s
nutty flavor makes it a popular table fruit.

Leccino – hardy, resistant to wind, olive knot and fungus. Leccino’s medium, purple green olives are grown for oil and table fruit. The variety is selfsterile and needs a pollinator.

Maurino – early maturing, medium size fruit that turns purple-black when
ripe. A good choice for colder, humid areas, it produces good quality oil.
Needs a pollinator.

Moraiolo – small, roundish fruit with high-quality oil. Harvest takes place as
the fruit turns from green to deep purple-brown.

Pendolino – used worldwide mainly as a pollinator but contains 20 percent to
22 percent good quality oil. It tolerates cold well but is susceptible to common
olive diseases.

Spanish Varieties:

Arbequina – a relatively small tree suitable for dense planting. Small fruit produces oil considered high quality by some standards.

Arbosana – these trees are an old variety recently brought back to production in Spain
. They have a stronger-flavored oil and are often mixed with
milder oils to add flavor and increase shelf life.

Empeltre – these trees are grown in Spain and Argentina
and produce oil
with a fine flavor.

Manzanillo – the world’s No. 1 table olive with excellent flavor and texture.
It also has a medium oil content, making it a valuable dual-purpose choice.

Picual – oval and meaty with a fat content up to 28 percent. It produces a
strong, intense, full-bodied oil.

Other Varieties:

Mission – the most cold-resistant California
cultivar. It can be picked
green for Spanish green olives or brown-red for ripe olive processing.
Contains a high oil content.

So san antonio would be very well suited providing the requirements are met.

Once you get it all set..there are a few things after planting.

Deep-water the olive tree after planting to moisten the surrounding soil all the way to the tree’s roots. Continue to water your olive tree regularly to maintain slightly moist soil. Note that, while olive trees are considered drought tolerant, I’ve heard San Antonio-grown olive trees will perform best when provided with frequent supplemental irrigation.

Fertilize your olive tree with a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer twice each year to ensure that your tree has the nutrients it needs for successful growth. Apply the first application in the early spring, as soon as new growth is observed. Apply the second fertilizer application in December to encourage healthy fruit-bud development. For best results, follow the application instructions on the fertilizer package.

For winter protection to prevent it from being killed by freezes. you must mound it 1 1/2 feet with frest topsoil around the bottom of the trees trunk in november, then remove the soil mount in early april when the weather warms up.

Prune the olive tree in the early spring to remove any dead damaged or diseased branches. Sharpened an sterilized pruning shears are needed to make clean pruning cuts. Don’t damage the branch bark collar when removing branches from the tree.

Maintain a 3 inch layer of mulch around your olive tree in the spring and summer and fall to help the tree conserve moisture.

Olive trees are susceptible to damage by common insects. Such as black scale bugs curculio beetles. The agricultural extension office in your local area can help with prevention and treatment advice.

The best advice I can offer is talk to an olive orchard owner in your area.
Trees will take between 2-5 years to produce depending on the variety.

I was also off, they will not grow in zone 6, but will grow in zone 7. 7 is the outer most tolerance for them.

So basically the varieties that would most likely grow are:

Frantoio: grown in Tuscany, Umbria, and other parts of Italy, The trees are only of medium height and bigger.They are self fertile and production is high and constant. This variety’s oils range from very light and fruity to somewhat peppery, depending on the stage at which the olives are harvested. Great in some umbrian dishes.

Leccino: favorite in the traditional olive-growing regions of Tuscany and Umbria. Leccino needs a polinator so it must be planted with other varieties such as Pendolino. Leccino olives produce a very fine, gentle, mellow and fruity oil. This oil will tone down more strongly flavored oils such as Frantoio and Coratina. Still great in a stir fry.

Pendolino: considered a universal pollinator and is compatible with all other trees. This cold hardy varietal originated in Tuscany. It is a constant good producer and grows 20+ feet in height.

Arbequina: Grown in Spain, these trees have proven very adaptable to a variety of climates. They are cold hardy and self pollinating. Suitable for very high-density plantings or orchards, they can thrive with as little as five feet between trees. While shorter than other varieties at maturity, these trees produce well after only two or three years in the ground, and their small olives produce a very sweet oil, with a delicate almond overtone. Very great in mashed potatoes believe it or not. Compliments the potatoes nicely.

Arbosana: capitalize on their ability to produce early, and on their suitability for high-density planting, this heirloom variety (50 year old or older seeds) of Spanish olives produces a stronger-flavored oil, often mixed with lighter oils to improve bite and nose, and to increase the shelf life of the bottled product.

Coratina: grown widely in the Puglia region of Italy. This variety is cold hardy and it will need a pollinator like Pendolino. It is medium sized – around 15 to 20 feet. It is constant bearing and a very heavy producer. Coratina oil is very stable and has undertones of apples and pepper. It becomes milder with age with an almond undertone.

Manzanilla: highly productive variety originated in Spain but is widely grown in the Middle East and the United States. The olives are primarily used for the table. The black olives that you find on the supermarket shelves are probably Manzanilla. This variety needs a pollinator; Sevillano or Pendolino. It bears in 4 to 5 years and production is good. These trees have medium resistance to cold as well as to changes in weather.

Picual: widely grown varietal in Spain and accounts for half of all olive production in that spain. It originated in what was the Moorish area of Spain. Considered vigorous, hardy, adaptable tree. It is medium cold resistant, and yields large amounts of fruit. Strains similar to this variety are commonly found throughout the Middle East. Its oil has a pungent taste with an undertone of figs, because the oil has such a high polyphenol content it can have a bite to it and has a very long shelf life.

Koroneiki: originated in Crete, is suitable for high-density orchards, and produces in two to three years after planting. The Koroneiki accounts for 75 percent of olive production in Greece. Although these trees bear small fruit, they give high and constant yields. Their olives produce an especially delicious, fruity oil with a slight undertone of green apple and leafy grass. The finish has a pleasant pepperiness and light bitterness. The oil also has a great shelf life.

Chemlali: This variety is the most common tree in the central and southern regions of Tunisia. It is resistant to drought and very cold hardy. Chemlali is self fertile and begins to bear early. It is a constant intermediate producer. The oil has a mild, fruity flavor that stands alone or blends well with other varieties. Particularly well drizzled over pasta.

Arbequina, arboana, koroneiki, manzanillo, and mission olives are edible table olives.

While chemlali, Croatina, frantoio, leccino, pendolino, and picual are only used for oil.

The distinction between table olives and oil olives, are oil olives are very high in oil, and thus more profitable to press into oil. However now they use centerfuges to spin the oil out of the olives. I am more partial to pressing as that it the old way of doing it.  Table olives are usually not very high in oil content so they usually take and end up on the table cause there isn’t much money in oil from them. Then there are those that are used for both, and they can be profitable both as a table olive and a oil olive.

I am currently working on a large list of olives from around the world, and making olive oil from scratch, and at this point in time, that may take awhile and will update this when I have that all typed out.

Garlic and hot pepper vinegar


1 quart (1 liter) white vinegar
5 dried hot red peppers, shredded
2 cloves of garlic
A sprig of rosemary
A little salt

Lightly salt the vinegar. Crush the cloves of garlic against the side of the jar and add the remaining ingredients. Cover, put the vinegar in a dark place, and let it macerate for 2 weeks, giving the jar a good shake once daily. Filter it and bottle it, and it’s ready.

the peppers is up to you….I use my tepins this way.

nice delicious roasted pork loin lightly sprinkled in it…mmmmm